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1993 RPM's drop to 0 when I accelerate

  #1  
Old 06-09-2014, 02:46 PM
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Default 1993 RPM's drop to 0 when I accelerate

Hey guys. I believe I am having problems with my fuel pump. Sometimes my car won't start and the problem is worse when the weather is hotter as in the summer. Sometime's when I put my key in and turn it I hear the pump priming, and sometimes I don't, that's why I am sure its a fuel pump thing. Sometimes it will start but when I go to accelerate it dies on me. The other day when I was driving home I was going about 35mph and the RPMs dropped to zero all the sudden and my car wouldn't accelerate. I pulled over and let it idle for a minute and then it worked until I got home and did the same thing in front of my house. It died in front of my house, the engine wasn't running but a fan under the hood was making noise for about 1 minute. That has never happened before. Any help or thoughts or experiences would be much appreciated. Thanks dudes!
 
  #2  
Old 06-09-2014, 03:25 PM
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When it stalls, try to look if the oil and battery lights on the dash come on like they should whenever the key is on but the engine is not turning. If they don't come on, it is likely a bad ignition switch. If it's safe to do so, check the lights before you touch the key trying to re-start.

Every owner of a 1988-1995 should do the main relay resolder, though that usually just affects initial starting, it could potentially also lead to stalling on the road.

https://www.hondacivicforum.com/foru...-repair-89522/
 

Last edited by mk378; 06-09-2014 at 03:28 PM.
  #3  
Old 06-12-2014, 10:59 AM
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Update: Ok so I replaced the main relay and my car still cranks but won't start. My next move is to check the voltage of the fuel pump. That way I'll be able to know if my fuel pump is bad or if I have an electrical problem. Any suggestions or advice is always welcome.
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-2014, 11:00 AM
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the dash come on like they should whenever the key is on but the engine is not turning. If they don't come on, it is likely a bad ignition switch. If it's safe to do so, check the lights before you touch the key trying to re-start.

Every owner of a 1988-1995 should do the main relay resolder, though that usually just affects initial starting, it could potentially also lead to stalling on the road.

Next time my car stalls I'll keep an eye out for that, thank you!
 
  #5  
Old 06-12-2014, 02:38 PM
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Turn the key on but don't crank. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds then stop. In a quiet place you should be able to hear it. During the 2 seconds, the CEL should come on while the pump runs then go out. It will do that whether or not the pump is good. If the CEL never comes on, or it comes on and stays on, knowing the main relay and fuses are OK this means that the ECU may be bad.
 
  #6  
Old 06-13-2014, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
Turn the key on but don't crank. The fuel pump should run for 2 seconds then stop. In a quiet place you should be able to hear it. During the 2 seconds, the CEL should come on while the pump runs then go out. It will do that whether or not the pump is good. If the CEL never comes on, or it comes on and stays on, knowing the main relay and fuses are OK this means that the ECU may be bad.
I did this and I can hear the pump run. While it runs the CEL goes on and then off. Does this mean the pump is bad and the ECU is ok? Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 06-13-2014, 09:12 AM
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ECU seems to be OK then. To check if the pump is actually pumping, do this. Loosen the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the tank. Disconnect the fuel return hose under the hood (the one that goes from the regulator on the left (driver's) end of the fuel rail back to a metal line on the firewall.) Turn key on again but don't crank, see if clean fuel comes out of the regulator. It should be a steady flow not just a dribble.

If that test passes put the line back on and test for spark next.
 

Last edited by mk378; 06-13-2014 at 09:14 AM.
  #8  
Old 06-13-2014, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
ECU seems to be OK then. To check if the pump is actually pumping, do this. Loosen the gas cap to relieve any pressure in the tank. Disconnect the fuel return hose under the hood (the one that goes from the regulator on the left (driver's) end of the fuel rail back to a metal line on the firewall.) Turn key on again but don't crank, see if clean fuel comes out of the regulator. It should be a steady flow not just a dribble.

If that test passes put the line back on and test for spark next.
I did not check whether the fuel pump was actually pumping, but I will do that when I get someone to help me crank the engine. I did check for spark and none of the plugs had spark. So I am going to check the distributor cap for the following: if the rotor spins while engine is cranking to ensure that my timing belt is still good, then check the coil for spark and then the igniter. Does that sound like the proper next steps?
 
  #9  
Old 06-13-2014, 01:03 PM
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You can tell if the camshaft (and the distributor) is turning by taking the oil filling cap off and watching the rocker arms move (or not). Be careful not to fire the coil into an open circuit, if you're going to crank with the cap off, hold a grounded test wire near the coil output spring so that any sparks have somewhere to go.

If no spark, check that the distributor is getting 12 volts power on the big black and yellow wire. It should have power both with the key on and while cranking. You can do this with the cap on.

Also you should put the test jumper in and see if there are any ECU codes.
 
  #10  
Old 06-13-2014, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378 View Post
You can tell if the camshaft (and the distributor) is turning by taking the oil filling cap off and watching the rocker arms move (or not). Be careful not to fire the coil into an open circuit, if you're going to crank with the cap off, hold a grounded test wire near the coil output spring so that any sparks have somewhere to go.

If no spark, check that the distributor is getting 12 volts power on the big black and yellow wire. It should have power both with the key on and while cranking. You can do this with the cap on.

Also you should put the test jumper in and see if there are any ECU codes.
I am having the same problem w my98'Civic 1.5/stick shift.As i have coil power but none at the plugs? Could the ignighter be the problem?
Dude if i knew what it is n seems to be a common problem !! Thanks man
 

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