I searched the forums couldn't find an answer. Didn't want to hijack an old thread either so here goes.

Car died after work suddenly. I hear the solenoid click when i turn the key. but engine does not turn over. Battery is less than 6 months old and has plenty of voltage. I checked all the fuses. Thinking it was the starter- I removed it took it to Autozone and they said it failed testing. I bought another for $120 (which comes with another solenoid) replaced it and I get the same bad results. Took new one back thinking they lied and ripped me off with my old one was fine. New one passed and old one was "sluggish" on the solenoid ejection. Regardless I just kept the new one. I can start the car by taking a jumper cable from the positive battery post and making contact with the starter and small wire on the solenoid. Car instantly starts and purrs like normal. I thought maybe the ignition switch was bad but since I hear the solenoid click and tested the the solenoid wire -( I get voltage from the small solenoid wire when i turn the key). Is there some relay / safety switch somewhere preventing the car from turning over with my starter system? I see if I were to purchase an "ignition switch" it comes with new keys, tumbler lock, and a couple wiring harnesses etc. I will refer to it as an ignition "assembly" switch since its more than an ignition switch and more like an ignition assembly. I am wondering if my hypothesis of a safety/starter relay somewhere is also attached when the new ignition "assembly" switch in the steering column when it is installed/purchased? I also thought maybe the neutral safety switch was bad, but I put it park and still nothing. I presume when in neutral it bypasses the neutral safety switch.

Any thoughts is appreciated, I have been messing with this for 3 days now and am at my wits end.

 

There is a switch on the shift lever (at the base of the lever, under the plastic console) that closes only if it is in P or N. This prevents starting in gear and having the car move inadvertently. Basically the circuit goes from the key switch, to the shifter switch, to the starter. I think the wires are all black with a white stripe. Plug in the starter (make sure the connection of the small wire is secure), and probe for voltage each place while someone turns the key.

 

Ok here is my results. I wasnt sure if you were talking about the Park Pin Switch , which has a couple black wires or the Shift Lock Solenoid (which has 2 yellow colored wires)

The Park Pin Switch had virtually no voltage when key was turned for on all 4 wires ( 2 red , 1 white , 1 black)

The Shift Lock Solenoid did get nearly 12 volts on one of the yellow wires when they was turned. Please see photo. I only tested while in Park position. I am not sure what my results indicate. Please advise for next troubleshooting / repair steps.




http://happygilmore.com/civic/civic.jpg

http://happygilmore.com/civic/capture.jpg

 

I don't think it is either of those. Those seem to be involved with the interlocks where you can't shift out of Park without pressing the brake, and you can't turn the key all the way off to lock the steering without shifting to Park.

Is there another switch on the other side? The other switch would control the starter and the reverse lights on the back of the car.

 

I believe you can barely see the wiring on the other side that is covered in blue plastic in my original photo. I presume you mean the A/T Gear Position Switch. You want me to see if one them gets voltage when I turn the key right? Should I also check for continuity as per the service diagram per photo?



Please advise, and thank you for your assistance.

Also, I noticed the steering interlock does not "lock"...I bought this car used quite some time ago and I don't recall if it ever worked to be honest. Dot mean to throw another variable in the situation, sorry. Just don't know if that would prevent the engine from turning over in a "safety sense". She has been a dependable car and now i am grasping at straws...

 

A/T position switch results:

Looking at the previous service manual photo. I get 12 volts on wires #10 and #11 when the key is turned - passed on for ignition. There is also constant voltage on the #1,2,9,6,14 when the key is on. Does this help? should I test for continuity on the A/T position switch? Please advise and thank you.