Sounds good. If the injector resistor turns out to be fine, I would recommend you next remove and clean the EACV.

See Civic 1988-90 service manual here: http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic/

 

So, thank you to all who have helped. I was able to play with the civic a little today. Since it would run while in the III position I started to look at the ignition module behind the lock cylinder. I was able to jump the circuit once I turned the car to start and was able to keep it running while it was jumped. I have ordered a new module. It will be here Thursday. After I install it I will update the post. If that does not fix it I will attempt to warm the leads on the main relay.

 

Great, sounds like you have figured out the problem. Previously, when the engine would die after starting, did you happen to notice whether the dash indicator lights (e.g., CEL, SRS, or OIL) failed to turn ON when the key was turned to position II? Just wondering whether there was an obvious clue that the ignition switch might be bad.

 

I did not notice the lights go out before I started playing with the ignition. Once I started to find the exact point the key would rotatate back to the II position and the car would cut off I did notice that the dash lights were not coming back on. If I turned the key from I to II the lights would come on but when turned from II to III they would not. I have took the current module out and dropped it off at my mechanics place this morning. He is a long time friend and said he would test the module in an attempt to determine if the connections need to be heated or if the core of the module itself is bad. I'll update as soon as he calls me.

To be honest, I think this could be a combination of the main relay and the ignition switch. The fact that I was driving and the car cut out seems symtematic of either piece. Hopefully I picked the right one to start with. Does anyone know how to measure resistance accross the main relay and what the resistance should be? I'd be curious to see if it stacks up against the measurements.

 

from what I've read on the web, the main relay solder joints need to be inspected. If there are any cracks in them, you have the same problem as many other owners of older civics do. The solder joint either needs to be removed and a new one made or as some have suggested, they just need to be reheated and then it will form a new joint.

Judging from your description of the car cutting out while driving leads me to believe that you are on the right track. the 6th gen civics were recalled for that exact same issue and they replaced the ignition module.

 

Hello all. I picked up the part at lunch today. Hurried home after work and got started with the ignition module swap. It wasn't easy since I didn't want to take the cylindar out but I managed. I put the key in and cranked it over, reluctantly let the key go back to the II position and it kept running. Ah, the familiar smell of warm oil :-) Nice to be back in the vinyl saddle again!! Thank you to all for your suggestions. It took a lot of time and I now have even less hair but I managed to figure it out. Now I'll move on to finding replacement seats . . . .