My dad seems to think its electrical. Hes thinking the coil is getting hot. Im gonna get a spark plug checker, whatever its called, and see if I am gettin spark.

 

That's a VTEC code, unlikely to cause stall out or really any issue when running below 4500 rpm. Clear the code and see if it reoccurs. Codes are cleared by disconnecting the battery with the key off.

Again you should check for sparks when it won't start. This could be like the other guy said, the ICM or igniter stops working when hot.

 

I got an inline spark tester and im gettin plenty of spark to the plugs. Would I be safe to assume that the coil is good? Im not sure how to test it. Also it looks like a fuel line that is ran to the fuel rail is comin from something on the firewall, is that a filter? Im gonna google pics to see where the fuel pressure regulator is. And the PCV valve. I will check those tomorrow.

 

Fuel pressure regulator is on the other end of the fuel rail. Make sure the little compensator hose is connected to the intake manifold vacuum. PCV valve is stuck into the top of the crankcase vent box on the back of the engine below the intake manifold. It has a hose that comes up and connects to the manifold.

Have you been driving the car or just watching it stall out while idling? Failure to idle (but runs when you press on the gas) is common and usually caused by the IACV being stuck or clogged up.

 

I have drove the car around and whej it warms up it misses out real bad when I slow down and stop at stop signs. When I take off I usually have to have to push the clutch in and throttle it to keep it from dying. At higher rpms though, it runs perfect. Only misses at lower rpms.

 

I had same exact problem as yours.

After messing with the car for quite some time, I managed to solve my problem.
My car would not start when it was warm. I went through a lot to figure out the problem.
I ended up changing distributor (at ~$60), the ECM (engine control module at ~$25). I re-soldered the fuel relay. I tested fuel pressure. I tested spark quality and timing and this is where I saw the problem. And my cause was a faulty ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor). I changed that at a price of ~$20. Now the car starts everytime. Not sure why it didn't throw a code when it was faulty though.

My other problem was a hesitation and jerking problem especially at low rpms. This started escalating over time. I figured out that the problem were faulty spark plug wires. They were failing under a load (think turning on AC) and when wetted down the car runs very rough. I ended up buying NGK spark plugs at ~$45 and that fixed it.

The car now runs perfect with no condition whatsoever. Hope this helps.