Did you check the solder points?

 

I'll look closer at them today, but I didn't see any cracks or bad welds.
If the points were bad would you still be able to get good continuity at all of the posts ?
Everything checked out for continuity and every terminal clicked as tested.

 

OK. Here is the details of my old situation with this. When humid, rainy, or hot outside, my car wouldn't start. It would start more reliably in the shade. How did I find that out? It happened over and over until all the variables that were left were humidity, rain or hot weather. It would work only sometimes on it's own, often making me late.

So it might test good for continuity sometimes, but in certain temperatures or relative humidity it would not. The problems were dry solder points, and from what I remember, the fuel relay was expensive to replace. I looked at it and it did have two dry cracked solder points which would swell and work, and shrink and not work. I re-soldered them and never had the problem again. I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

I just replaced the main relay only 150 miles ( maybe less ) ago. Both MR - the new one and the original OEM piece that i have seem to check out fine.
I think i will resolder the MR anyways, since that sure would be an easy fix !

 

^that
Check distributor. Troubleshoot the coil.

 

Yes. I totally agree that the distributor has issues, but would a bad distributor cause electrical problems further down the line as well? ( the main relay )

I plan to install an entirely new distributor, but i was just concerned that while this may solve the weak spark problem, it wouldn't fix the problem with the main relay.

Thanks .

 

The distributor doesn't affect the main relay at all, or vice versa. The main relay controls the fuel pump and fuel injectors. The distributor generates timing and sparks.

 

I agree with WellFedHobo. Aside from the Main Relay (Fuel Relay), the next thing I would check is ignition coil. I had the same problem a few years back. It was my Main Relay though. Wouldn't start if it was hot, cold, humid or rainy. It would only start in perfect weather in the shade, and I was totally baffled! Good luck

PS: Both WellFedHobo & mk378 have helped me with issues and have a lot of knowledge regarding these type of things.

^What do you suggest mk378?

Thanks and good luck. I hope you find the issue!

 

I installed a new distributor, so the spark problem is not an issue, but i'm still having issues with the car not getting current to the fuel pump.
I have narrowed the problem down to the wiring in the steering column. I soldered the connections on the plug to the main relay,and all the wiring is tight and looks to be in perfect shape, so i'm pretty confident that the MR is getting current.
It appears that i either have a break in the wire there somewhere or in the wiring of the ignition switch.
A strange thing happened while testing : I noticed that if i turned the the key to the 'II' position and held it there for a second or two, the fuel pump would kick on. I could then turn the car to 'III' and start the car.
However, if i just turned the key to 'III' without holding the key at "II" for a second or two, the engine would just turn over.

So my question now is - based on these videos, would you say that the actual cylinder is bad, or just the wiring ?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M9Vgn...LJlRw8Ucl7Z2UJ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nRtfn...LXPiye_G--1Fbo

 

When you go straight to III, does the oil light come on? Don't press the clutch, so the engine won't crank during the test.

When you say you soldered all the connections, did you take the main relay apart and resolder the circuit board inside? That's where the problem area is.