At least one is plugged into the front or rear of the dash fuse box.

 

Ok, I found the one with the three wires. I just decided to check continuity directley on the back of the switch. everything was good except, in position III from WHT (BAT) to BLK/WHT (ST) I had an open. All others had perfect continuity ~.2-.6 Ohms. Also according to the diagram I dont put the key in until after position three, how am i suppose to turn through the positions without the key in? I mad all measerments with the key in the position that the diagram says.

 

I am not sure whether your test results are valid as you didn't do them as described in the diagram. You need to locate the the 5P and 7P connectors.

Each test is independent of the others and can be done out of order from the table. The only test done without the key in is position 0.

 

Ok, I found both connectors and did all measurements exactly like the diagram and all are good.Do I have to disconnect the SRS wiring harness ?? So I can rule out the Ignition Switch?

 

Disconnecting the SRS should not be necessary.

Plug the connectors back in. Does the engine now start?

If it's not too much trouble, could you please post pictures showing the locations of the 5P and 7P connectors so that others might benefit from this thread.

 

I will post pictures. NEW DEVELOPMENT))))))) It push starts fine, and runs like normal, just wont start with ignition key.

 

Despite your test results on the switch, your collective information about this problem is most consistent with a bad ignition switch. Perhaps if you redo the BAT to IG1 continuity test several times, you'll see the lack of continuity (intermittent problem).

 

 

Ok, well Im going to buy a new ignition switch, I will post when Ive installed it. How complicated is it? It looks fairly simple to replace.

 

With everything plugged in, turn the key to II, normal run, and observe that the oil and battery lights on the dash come on because the engine is not running. In the next step do not push the clutch pedal down, you do not want the engine to crank. Turn the key to III and see if the oil and battery lights stay on (they should, as they are powered from the ignition circuit which must stay powered while cranking the engine so it can start). If they go out, the ignition switch is bad. Absolutely no doubt about it, you can quit testing stuff and replace the switch.

Switch is easy to replace, remove the steering column covers, unplug switch, remove screws holding switch to the lock cylinder/steering wheel lock.