Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat If you've got a problem you just can't figure out, a noise you can't diagnose, or a check engine light that won't go away, ask about it here!

All kinds of ignition problems!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #11  
Old 09-09-2010, 10:51 AM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

OK, will try that first. Thanks mk378 I really appreciate the help!
 
  #12  
Old 09-15-2010, 07:11 AM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

I had a buddy do a "pin test" for me, here are the results, although I have no real clue what they mean so any help interpretting this will be a big help!

Did the following test and these are the results. We had the ECU plugged in and back probed all the wires.

A1 0V
A2 0V
A3 0V
A4 –
A5 0V
A6 0V
A7 0V
A8 –
A9 (Can’t warm the engine) 0V
A10 –
A11 –
A12 12V
A13 0.8V
A14 –
A15 12V
A16 207mV
A17 –
A18 –
A19 –
A20 0V
A21 11.4V
A22 –
A23 7.7mV
A24 7.7mV
A25 0.5mV
A26 0.4mV

B1 0V
B2 <1V
B3 –
B4 –
B5 (~5V with KOEO & A/C off) 11.81V (<1 KOER with A/C & blower on) 0.995V can’t run engine though
B6 –
B7 –
B8 –
B9 0V
B10 1.189V
B11 0V
B12 0V
B13 –
B14 –
B15 –
B16 –

D1 Battery Voltage
D2 0V
D3 –
D4 ~5V (manual transmission)
D5 –
D6 –
D7 –
D8 –
D9 39.5 mV
D10 –
D11 (~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed) 39.5mV; (~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open) 138.3mV
D12 –
D13 91.8mV
D14 drops to under .1V
D15 91.1mV
D16 –
D17 69.6mV
D18 –
D19 155mV
D20 155mV
D21 0.5mV
D22 0.5mV
 
  #13  
Old 09-15-2010, 07:15 AM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

PS here is the list of all the pins:

A1-INJ1 INJECTOR#1 Brown, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A2-INJ4 INJECTOR#4 Yellow, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A3-INJ2 INJECTOR#2 Red, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A4-VTS VTEC solenoid GRN/YEL, n/a
A5-INJ3 INJECTOR#3 Blue, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A6-PO2SHTC O2 sensor heating element Org/Wht, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A7-FLR1 fuel pump Grn/BLK, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A8-empty A7 and A8 have the same circurt, so they can be the same
A9-IACV IAC valve Blk/Blu, About 10v KOEO on Warm engine
A10-empty
A11-EGR Control Solenoid Valve (if the ECU has it) Red, n/a
A12-FANC engine coolant temp switch Blu/red, n/a
A13-MIL MIL (check engine light) Blu/wht, n/a
A14-empty
A15-ACC (a/c compressor clutch) Red/Blu, n/a
A16-ALT C alternator Wht/Grn, n/a
A17-IAB IAB Solenoid Pink, n/a
A18-Org/Red, Transmission Control Module (A/T), n/a
A19-White, Intake control solenoid, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A20-PCS EVAP purge control solenoid Red/Grn, n/a
A21-ICM Yel/Grn, Ignition Control Module output signal, About 10V KOEO
A22-Igniter, same as A21
A23-PG1 ground Black, Power ground, less than 1V
A24-PG2 ground same as A23
A25-IGP2 to main relay and to ground Yel/blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
A26-LG1 gound Blk/red, less than 1V

B1-IGP2 to pin A25 Yel/Blk, Battery positive from Main relay, Battery Voltage with KOEO
B2-LG2 ground to shields for CYP & TDC Brown/Blk, <1V
B3-Orange, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B4-Pink, upshift/downshift comparative input, n/a
B5-ACS a/c switch Blu/Blk, a/c input, ~5V with KOEO & A/C off; <1V KOER with A/C & blower on
B6-empty
B7-Light green, Park/Neutral switch (A/T), <1V in Park or Neutral with KOEO; 5V in Park or neutral with KOER; Battery voltage in all other positions
B8-PSPSW PSP switch Red/Green, Power steering oil pressure switch, 0V KOEO; Battery Voltage KOER While slowly turning steering wheel
B9-STARTER SIGNAL starter signal Blue/red, Battery Voltage in the START position (clutch depressed on M/T models)
B10-VSS vehicle speed sensor Orange, Pulses 0-12V while turning the left front wheel
B11-CYP P CYP(#1 piston position) -P Orange, CYP sensor input, n/a
B12-CYP M CYP -M White, CYP sensor signal, n/a
B13-TDC P TDC(top dead ceter) -P Org/Blue, TDC sensor input, n/a
B14-TDC M TDC -M Wht/Blue, TDC sensor signal, n/a
B15-CKP P CKP(crank position) -P Blu/Green, CKP Sensor input, n/a
B16-CKP M CKP -M Blu/yel, CKP Sensor signal, n/a

D1-VBU Back Up Power Wht/Yel, Battery positive From battery through Fuse Box, Battery Voltage at ALL times
D2-BKSW brake switch Grn/wht, Battery voltage at all times
D3-KS Knock Sensor Red/Blue, n/a
D4-SCS service check connector Brown/Wht, ~5V (M/T); ~11V (A/T)
D5-empty
D6-VTM VTEC pressure switch Light Blue, n/a
D7-TXD/RXD (data link connector) Light Green/Red, n/a
D8-empty
D9-ALT F alternator Wht/Red, Alternator Charging Signal, ~4.5V KOEO; Decreases under Electrical load (Headlights & rear defogger on) At warm idle
D10-ELD electric load detector input Grn/Blk, n/a
D11-TPS (throttle position sensor) Signal Red/Blk, ~0.5V KOEO with throttle fully closed; ~4.5V KOEO with throttle fully open
D12-Wht/Blk, EGR Valve Lift sensor, ~1.2V KOEO
D13-ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor input Yel/Blu, ~5V KOEO (varies with temperature)
D14-PHO2S O2 sensor White, heated 02 sensor Signal, 0.4-0.5V when ignition is turned on; drops to less than 0.1V within 2 minutes
D15-IAT Intake Air Temperature sensor signal Red/Yel, .05-4.5V KOEO(Varies with temperature)
D16-VREF (no info)
D17-MAP Map Signal Wht/Blu, ~3V KOEO (Varies with Temperature)
D18-Light Green/Blk, Transmission Control Module (A/T Only), n/a
D19-Red/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D20-Yel/Wht, Reference Voltage, ~5V KOEO
D21-Blue/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
D22-Green/Wht, Sensor ground, <1V
 
  #14  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:27 AM
mk378's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

The problem is that the car isn't sending power to A25 and B1. That comes through the main relay. But unlike the fuel pump, not on command of the ECU -- it should come on immediately with key on even with no ECU.
 
  #15  
Old 09-15-2010, 08:37 AM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

But we have checked the relay and it seems to check out?
 
  #16  
Old 09-15-2010, 10:45 AM
mk378's Avatar
Recognized HCF Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,023
Default

You need to get a schematic of the car and test your way from A25 back to the battery. Find out where the voltage is being lost. There are 2 fuses involved, one feeds power to the relay and the other one feeds the circuit that pulls in the coil on the relay.
 
  #17  
Old 09-16-2010, 02:41 PM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

Well mk378 you were right, of coarse!

The relay is fine but port 5 on the harness it connects to is the problem. When we bypass it with external power the car fires right up! So I guess all I have to do is find the break in the wire and fix it and it'll be good to go (hopfully).

Thanks mk378, couldnt've done it without your help!
 
  #18  
Old 09-17-2010, 09:26 AM
mtblillie's Avatar
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Farmington, NM
Posts: 14
Default

It turned out to be a stupid fuse. We had checked all the main fuses before but this as we were looking through the wiring diagram we figured out that the fuses weren't labelled correctly and the fuse that runs through the diagram was marked "accessory," as soon as we changed it the car started right up!

Thanks for all your help mk378!

 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shadowfetus
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
1
12-13-2012 08:46 PM
jeff_o
Suspension, Brakes, Tires & Wheels
2
12-16-2007 01:16 PM
noshowallgo
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade Classifieds
30
09-27-2007 08:46 PM
Live_4it
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
7
07-31-2007 08:38 AM
Graeme54
Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat
0
10-26-2004 08:11 AM



Quick Reply: All kinds of ignition problems!



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:56 PM.