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a/c charge: Read the gauge when the compressor cycles on? or off?

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  #1  
Old 03-31-2015, 04:25 PM
tommiecivic's Avatar
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Default a/c charge: Read the gauge when the compressor cycles on? or off?

Checking my refrigerant level with can of R134 and pressure gauge...

The compressor cycles on and off as the a/c is turned on. My questions is...When do I read the gauge on my can of R134 refrigerant, when my compressor kicks on or off?

[edit] When the compressor kicks on, it reads around 45psi. When the compressor cycles off, the pressure shows in the red.

The problem I'm having with this vehicle is the ac works and then it doesn't. It's probably no surprise but it always seems to stop working when it's 100 degrees.
 

Last edited by tommiecivic; 04-01-2015 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:38 PM
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Can the system have too much oil in it??? Hit the high pressure valve and it came out like it was straight oil. ???

AC didn't work today at 80 deg but if it's not too hot, the compressor will run like it's supposed to me.

IDEAS??????
 
  #3  
Old 04-02-2015, 05:35 PM
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If it works sometimes, you have the proper amount of refrigerant and oil to make it cool. So get rid of that can and single gauge that tells you nothing, before you hurt something. There are not gremlins under the hood taking your R-134a out and then putting it back in order to mess with your mind.

The most common reason for works sometimes but not others is that the compressor clutch gap has worn to be too large for the magnetic force to reliably engage it. This especially happens as it gets hotter under the hood because the coil does not generate as much magnetism when it is hot.

When it is not cooling, pull over and check if the compressor is not engaged but the condenser fan is running. If that's the case you probably need to take the clutch plate off of the compressor, remove some shim washers from the shaft, and reassemble so it has a smaller gap (aim for about .010 inches, but any gap is OK as long as the clutch does not drag when off).

This can be done with the system charged. You may need to unbolt the compressor from the engine and move it down to reach the clutch, but do not disconnect the refrigerant lines.
 

Last edited by mk378; 04-02-2015 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
The most common reason for works sometimes but not others is that the compressor clutch gap has worn to be too large for the magnetic force to reliably engage it. This especially happens as it gets hotter under the hood because the coil does not generate as much magnetism when it is hot.

When it is not cooling, pull over and check if the compressor is not engaged but the condenser fan is running. If that's the case you probably need to take the clutch plate off of the compressor, remove some shim washers from the shaft, and reassemble so it has a smaller gap (aim for about .010 inches, but any gap is OK as long as the clutch does not drag when off).
MK Thanks for the input. Before your input, I attempted to add r134 but it would not even begin to transfer any from a new can whatsoever and the clutch wouldn't engage at all.

To answer your question, yes. When it isn't cooling, the clutch is not engaging but the condenser fan runs.

It's cool outside right now and the compressor is engaging.

So, the next logical step would be to remove the clutch plate and remove some washers. Hmmm. Sounds fun. oof.

Thanks. whish me luck.
 
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