When you reach the next step, the Check Engine Light code can be retrieved by following instructions at this site:

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/1901557

 

The car is now shutting off minutes later without a check engine light. I'm unsure when to do that test you just linked to me..do because now im not getting the check engine light, Should I just try this out of no where? Or after my car shuts off?

 

As the Check Engine Light (CEL) has not turned back ON, then I recommend that you first take mk378's advice by testing whether the car will start after tapping on the main relay. If so, then the main relay is likely the problem.

If the main relay happens to be fine, then you should next try replacing the fuel filter or troubleshooting your fuel pump.

Retrieving the CEL code (as described at the link) would come later if it happens to relight.

 

I couldent get another check engine light, but i did check the test, and I came up with 15 Ignition output signal.

What is that??

 

Code 15 is potentially related to your starting problem as it indicates an ignition system fault, possibly the igniter unit (pictures 1 and 2). This component (found within the distributor) is required for production of spark at the plugs (picture 3). Note that the first picture states that, if the engine does not start, you may need to crank it for 20 sec to set the code.

 

Ive check all the wiring to the distrubuter and the engine, seems ok.

So, should i spend the money on a new relay box? Also a friend recommended checking the relay "fuse"?

 

I'm currently unable to answer this question with certainty.

1) Based on what mk378 has said, the symptoms are very consistent with a faulty main relay problem; however, this idea would be more compelling with some additional evidence, such as the car starts when you tap the main relay or, when the car won't start, you don't hear the rear buzz from the fuel pump (controlled by the main relay). Do you currently have any such additional evidence?

2) I don't think the fuse to your main relay is blown because the car intermittently starts.

3) On the other hand, the CEL code suggests that the starting problem may be due to a faulty igniter unit or its circuitry. Did you use a multimeter to perform some of the tests in the pictures?

In summary, without some additional test information, it is presently difficult for me to recommend the purchase of a new main relay or an igniter unit. I would hate for you to waste your money on an unnecessary part.

 

Check the wiring inside the distributor where the wires plug onto the igniter and hook to the coil. The cap, rotor and the inner cover have to be removed to see it. You can pinch the wire terminals for the igniter with pliers slightly so they have a better grip.

Reset the computer codes by disconnecting the battery for a minute or so. If you get a code 15 again after that you probably do need an igniter unit.

 

i had a similar problem with my old toyota. it ended up being an ecu