Changing The Rear Brake Springs and the STRUGGLE!!!!!
I got a 92 Civic LX with 186,000 miles (automatic).
I brought a new spring kit & I'm trying to change my rear brake drum springs today & came upon a couple of issues.
1. When trying to change the springs it seems tho as if you need SUPERMAN X5 to get the big spring on..I have tried to put that stupid spring on first, last, in the middle, at the same time...and nothing is working. That spring's "bounce back" is just too great for me.
2. When trying to put the Big spring on it knocked out one side of the brake cylinder & some fluid came out. Is this brake fluid? Not much came out..just about 2 tablespoons. If it's brake fluid do I have to breed my brakes on that side?
The reason I'm trying to change the springs is because my old springs are too weak therefore causing my rear brakes to be "not so tight" therefore causing the brakes to make an scraping sound.
I don't know what to do.....it's a mother forker trying to get that big spring on!!
P.S: Just a thought..I wonder what kind of tool mechanics use to get NEW springs on?
I brought a new spring kit & I'm trying to change my rear brake drum springs today & came upon a couple of issues.
1. When trying to change the springs it seems tho as if you need SUPERMAN X5 to get the big spring on..I have tried to put that stupid spring on first, last, in the middle, at the same time...and nothing is working. That spring's "bounce back" is just too great for me.
2. When trying to put the Big spring on it knocked out one side of the brake cylinder & some fluid came out. Is this brake fluid? Not much came out..just about 2 tablespoons. If it's brake fluid do I have to breed my brakes on that side?
The reason I'm trying to change the springs is because my old springs are too weak therefore causing my rear brakes to be "not so tight" therefore causing the brakes to make an scraping sound.
I don't know what to do.....it's a mother forker trying to get that big spring on!!
P.S: Just a thought..I wonder what kind of tool mechanics use to get NEW springs on?
Been a while since I did one, but if you're having trouble it's a lot easier to reach the brake parts after you take the hub off. I think I had the shoes off and "fold" them out so the springs are (relatively) loose. Then push them down against the plate and put the hold-down pins on.
The substance is indeed brake fluid and you'll need to bleed the brakes, at least that wheel. Top up the reservoir now, don't let it go dry. You may find there is damage to the cylinder causing it to leak now.
The substance is indeed brake fluid and you'll need to bleed the brakes, at least that wheel. Top up the reservoir now, don't let it go dry. You may find there is damage to the cylinder causing it to leak now.
Last edited by mk378; Oct 30, 2010 at 02:38 PM.
...Yeah.the rubber fittings on the cylinders got a hole in them anyway because I had both pads held down & everything in place & the last step was the big spring..tried to reach it over to the other pad and the spring hook sprung back right into the rubber piece.
Again..it's a struggle trying to get that sucker on..My face looks like Arnold in Total Recall when I do it.
Again..it's a struggle trying to get that sucker on..My face looks like Arnold in Total Recall when I do it.
Ok I have another problem in the same area...I was trying to breed my passenger side rear brakes(with the springs in place on the pads) & forgot all about the driver-side rear spring brakes which keep the wheel cylinder from coming out too far...well...they came out too far & now I don't know how to push them back in. I tried hammering the brake pads(to inch the cylinder back in) but that didn't work...already tried pushing it back in with my hands..it was a no-go.
The problems just keep coming & coming....
The problems just keep coming & coming....
Last edited by Mecca8383; Oct 30, 2010 at 05:03 PM.
Did you collapse the parking brake adjuster before you try to put on the new shoes?
Did pistons fall out of wheel cylinders? You don't want use hammer to pound them in. You would ruin the cylinder inside wall. Pushing with hand should be enough. But for some reason you cannot push them in, you could open the bleed valve to eliminate possibility of hydraulic lock. This should not be happening on brake system, though.
For the spring installation, you need to have springs in position (hooked) on the shoes with both retainer pins off. You also want to have parking brake adjuster and cable hooked up at this time as well. Now, place one shoe in the home position, then take long enough screw driver, tip to the hub and lower corner of the shoe on the middle of the screw driver. Then you pull the handle in the direction to stretch the spring just enough to go over the retaining block thing on the lower section of backing plate.
After shoes are in place where they should be with springs in place, you install both of shoe retaining pins.
Well, does it make sense to you? It has been a long x2 time since I did this kind of job but I know what is involved. It's kinda hard to explain in words.
Come-on, a skinny Japanese guy can do it without sweating......
Did pistons fall out of wheel cylinders? You don't want use hammer to pound them in. You would ruin the cylinder inside wall. Pushing with hand should be enough. But for some reason you cannot push them in, you could open the bleed valve to eliminate possibility of hydraulic lock. This should not be happening on brake system, though.
For the spring installation, you need to have springs in position (hooked) on the shoes with both retainer pins off. You also want to have parking brake adjuster and cable hooked up at this time as well. Now, place one shoe in the home position, then take long enough screw driver, tip to the hub and lower corner of the shoe on the middle of the screw driver. Then you pull the handle in the direction to stretch the spring just enough to go over the retaining block thing on the lower section of backing plate.
After shoes are in place where they should be with springs in place, you install both of shoe retaining pins.
Well, does it make sense to you? It has been a long x2 time since I did this kind of job but I know what is involved. It's kinda hard to explain in words.
Come-on, a skinny Japanese guy can do it without sweating......
I got the wheel cylinders for both rear brakes...Now after I finish installing them do I have to bleed the whole brake system or just the rear brakes?
Also I heard you have to have the drums on when bleeding..is that required as well?
Also I heard you have to have the drums on when bleeding..is that required as well?
I think I'm the one who told you that you need to put the drums on when bleeding (if you use the conventional method of pumping the pedal). As you may remember, pushing the brake pedal with the drums off will let the pistons pop out of the wheel cylinders. The bleed is typically the last thing to do after it is all put back together, before the test drive.
I'd go ahead and bleed the fronts too, just to be sure.
I'd go ahead and bleed the fronts too, just to be sure.
Finished up on the new springs & the new wheel cylinders...But when I put the drums & spun them BOTH drums made a slight scraping sound..I adjusted the shoes to be further away from the drum...it still made that sound.
BUT..when I took it for a test drive there was no sound...hit the brakes(soft & hard) numerous times..maybe the brakes adjusted themselves(self adjuster?). But my brakes are good now...Thank you guys!
BUT..when I took it for a test drive there was no sound...hit the brakes(soft & hard) numerous times..maybe the brakes adjusted themselves(self adjuster?). But my brakes are good now...Thank you guys!
Slight scraping sound is nothing to worry about. It happened every time on shoe installation when I did it. The shoes will find their own home position themselves after while.
Aside from scraping issue, you may need to pull parking brake lever several times to set the adjuster in right position.
Aside from scraping issue, you may need to pull parking brake lever several times to set the adjuster in right position.
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