whatup guys!

I'm trying to nail down exactly what went wrong and what needs to be replaced. I was on the hwy going 70mph everything was smooth until all of a sudden it lost power, sputtered a little, and then cut off. I then had to coast to the other side of the highway. I tried to start it and the starter sounded fine like it normally does, but it just wouldn't turn over. I had to then get it towed to my house and now I'm trying to figure what I need to replace or look at. I remember I had a similiar problem with an accord I had and whatever it was, it was a common issue on older Hondas when its really hot out. I'm in Ga, so you know its really hot down here. I dont remember if it was the main relay, ignition coil,or something else. I know someone has experienced this before and would like some help jogging my brain to get this resolved.

Thanks everyone!

 

Fuel) Do you hear the low humming noise of the fuel pump in the rear (gas tank) when you turn the ignition key to ON but don't crank the engine? You must listen carefully as the sound is not loud. If the fuel pump is not priming as evidence by the lack of the humming sound, then check the main relay and fuel pump.

Spark) Check for spark at all of the plugs. Remove a spark plug wire at one of the plugs. Leaving the spark plug in place, insert a spare spark plug into the free end of the plug wire. Ground the threads of the spark plug on a convenient metallic engine part like the valve cover and have a buddy crank the engine. You should see a bright blue spark at the tip of the plug. If not, check the coil and igniter unit in the distributor and also check whether the timing belt has snapped. For the latter, remove the valve cover and upper timing belt cover to inspect the belt.

*If you have both fuel and spark, check whether the timing belt has slipped a few teeth.

 

if it cuts out when warm and does not restart and you have an older model civic around '88-91 or so, then it could be your main relay losing connection. checking the items that RonJ mentioned will help you see if the fuel pump is turning on. If it isn't it could very well be the main relay which needs to be resoldered.

also have you considered the timing belt as the culprit? when was it last changed?

 

ok, I check to see if the fuel pump is priming. I'll also due the spark check to see if the coil is bad. The timing belt was changed in Nov of last year, but I'll still check that. BTW the civic is a 95 civic vx so I think it might be main realy related. I'll check this out and post back what I find. Thanks for the replies guys.

 

If you find no spark at the plugs, take the distributor cap off and hold a grounded test wire near the spring on the coil. Have someone crank the engine and see if any sparks jump. Also note if the distributor rotor turns. If the rotor doesn't turn, the timing belt is bad. If the rotor turns you should get sparks that can jump 3/4 inch or so. If you only get sparks when the wire is real close to the spring, the coil is bad. If you don't get any sparks at all it could be a bad coil or something else.

Continuing to check for "something else", take the rotor off (remove bolt) and take the plastic divider plate out of the distributor. Turn the key on and measure voltage from the small terminals on the coil to ground. Should be battery voltage. If not there is a problem with the car's electrical system, like a blown fuse. If you have voltage, rotor turning, but no sparks, check the ECU for codes. With no codes it could be a bad ICM (module in the distributor that drives the coil) or coil. If you get a distributor sensor code it's the distributor. You can also just buy a rebuilt distributor which will replace the sensors, ICM, and coil in one shot. Do not turn in your "bad" distributor until after the new one is on the car and working.

 

Cautionary note for conducting the above tests for coil spark and a broken timing belt:

Information at the link below suggests that removal of either the distributor cap or a spark plug wire when cranking the engine runs the risk of damaging the coil. Consistent with this idea, on this forum during the past year, I have read several different threads where removal of a spark plug wire has apparently led to a blown coil.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...s.html#badcoil

Quote from above link:



This link also covers many other topics about Hondas, if you happen to be interested.

Note, by posting this information, I am in no way attempting to discredit mk, who is a highly knowledgeable mechanic that I respect and who has likely performed these tests without damaging any ignition systems. Instead, I am presenting information that suggests that performing the tests carries some risk, especially in the hands of a less experienced mechanic.

 

Ok,it was the ignition coil. Once I ruled out the main relay by listening to see if I heard the fuel pump priming after turning the key to the second position, I purchased an ignition coil for 60 bucks and began the installation. Once I took the distributor cover off, the rotor was the only issue. The screw to remove it was rotated to the left and I needed it to be top dead center in order to access it. I cranked the car a few times to allow it to rotate to the correct position. Once done I removed it.I swapped ignition coils, replaced everything, and it started right up. Tomorrow I will go ahead and replace the plugs and wires for the piece of mind.

Thanks again to everyone and all the responses!!!![/align]