civic won't start
#21
On the pulley, as I rotate cc, I see 3 notches grouped together. The middle one is painted red. About an inch further along in the cc rotation is an isolated notch, but I can't tell if its painted white. Is this the TDC notch? From the diagram above I'm led to believe so.
Yes, TDC1 is the lone mark separated from the group of three.
Also how do I tell if I have a DX, HF OR Si motor.
Your car is a DX, so if there was not an engine swap, go with that information.
If I have a DX, I align the pully up with the isolated mark, then the marks on the crack seem to align with the flat surface of the head. If it jumped a tooth. would it be really obvious that it doesn't align with the flat? Seems to be an area there that you could say it was lined up?
The same marks on the front of the cam pulley that align with the top surface of the head should also be present on the rear side of the pulley. I prefer to use the rear marks to position the cam pulley at TDC1 because I am more confident about the alignment.
I pulled the plugs. They were all wet with gas. I've got spark. If the timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth, what would be the next thing to check for being wrong?
Any CEL codes?
Is spark bright white? If so, the next step would be to compression test the cylinders.
Yes, TDC1 is the lone mark separated from the group of three.
Also how do I tell if I have a DX, HF OR Si motor.
Your car is a DX, so if there was not an engine swap, go with that information.
If I have a DX, I align the pully up with the isolated mark, then the marks on the crack seem to align with the flat surface of the head. If it jumped a tooth. would it be really obvious that it doesn't align with the flat? Seems to be an area there that you could say it was lined up?
The same marks on the front of the cam pulley that align with the top surface of the head should also be present on the rear side of the pulley. I prefer to use the rear marks to position the cam pulley at TDC1 because I am more confident about the alignment.
I pulled the plugs. They were all wet with gas. I've got spark. If the timing belt hasn't jumped a tooth, what would be the next thing to check for being wrong?
Any CEL codes?
Is spark bright white? If so, the next step would be to compression test the cylinders.
#22
Missing Something??
I think we must be missing something. I know in the heat of troubleshooting sometimes we go off on a tangent and forget what started the problem to begin with.
This problem started with the rotor screw coming out and letting the rotor free wheel. I don't think this could cause compression problem in a car that was running fine before the rotor came loose.
I've changed the coil. I've got spark, although maybe not strong enough. What about the rotor coming loose would cause this problem? I don't remember a white spark. More like orange, but it was visible and audible.
There are no error codes. When I get it put back together again I'll check the spark again. Would the igniter cause a weak spark? Thanks kevin
This problem started with the rotor screw coming out and letting the rotor free wheel. I don't think this could cause compression problem in a car that was running fine before the rotor came loose.
I've changed the coil. I've got spark, although maybe not strong enough. What about the rotor coming loose would cause this problem? I don't remember a white spark. More like orange, but it was visible and audible.
There are no error codes. When I get it put back together again I'll check the spark again. Would the igniter cause a weak spark? Thanks kevin
#23
I think we must be missing something. I know in the heat of troubleshooting sometimes we go off on a tangent and forget what started the problem to begin with.
This problem started with the rotor screw coming out and letting the rotor free wheel. I don't think this could cause compression problem in a car that was running fine before the rotor came loose.
I've changed the coil. I've got spark, although maybe not strong enough. What about the rotor coming loose would cause this problem? I don't remember a white spark. More like orange, but it was visible and audible.
There are no error codes. When I get it put back together again I'll check the spark again. Would the igniter cause a weak spark? Thanks kevin
This problem started with the rotor screw coming out and letting the rotor free wheel. I don't think this could cause compression problem in a car that was running fine before the rotor came loose.
I've changed the coil. I've got spark, although maybe not strong enough. What about the rotor coming loose would cause this problem? I don't remember a white spark. More like orange, but it was visible and audible.
There are no error codes. When I get it put back together again I'll check the spark again. Would the igniter cause a weak spark? Thanks kevin
Last edited by RonJ; 04-08-2010 at 12:53 PM.
#25
Logical Problem
The fuel pump primes, right? Is there unburned gas in the cylinders (=fuel injectors work)? And you have spark. Click the Spark link in my signature. Is spark bright white? If so, did you reconnect the plug wires in the wrong firing order? Any CEL codes? If all of this is fine, then your current troubleshooting effort is right on track.
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