What if i just buy a new IACV/EAVC will that fix the problem? and where would i run the coolant lines to since i was auto before?

 

You may also need to change the wire harness as the MT IACV has a 2P connector and the AT IACV has a 3P connector.

 

well what if i just dont do anything and leave the light will it end up hurting anything in the long run?

 

Not a good idea. The IACV is very important. The engine won't idle properly and may have additional problems, and you also won't pass inspection in many states.

 

Yeah, it won't be good ideal. I see you live in Redlands, CA. They will check for the CEL during the smog check. Also, your gas mileage might suffer with a CEL.

You can go to the dealer to find out how to route the coolant hoses. Have them print out the a part diagram for a manual trans, I had them to this when I was replacing all my hoses.

 

so i've been reading other peoples problems similar to this on other forums and something that might make sence... could this be a vacuum leak? and would'nt that cause it to idle weird causing the IACV CEL to come up?

 

A vacuum leak would cause a high idle, which I don't think you have.

 

no but when the car is cold there is no problem and when it fully gets warm this is when it happens.. then it will idle low at a stop but it will go higher then lower ranging from maybe 500 to 1300rpm. would this still be and IACV?

 

Like Ron said, a vacuum leak tends to make it too high all the time. Do you have a steady idle with the wire unplugged at the EACV? If the engine stalls under that condition, turn up the air screw on the throttle body until it just barely runs (400-500 rpm).

 

So if the engine stalls turn up the screw while the EACV is unpluged? and how come it only does it when its fully warmed up?