Hey guys, I just noticed yesterday that there is indeed a project section. I'd like to move this one over to the project section (admin???) and hopefully you guys can follow it over and continue to help me there. I just don't want to keep hogging up the tech board with my questions that all pertain to a single project. --- THANKS!

Hi, I've posted here before but lost my login info. I'm new, but not newbie swabsprout mcgreenhorn. So I've posted problems here before about my 89 Civic DX SE, blown head gasket, speratic idle, water pumps, timing belts, BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH. After all of this, the car was smoking and burning oil (PISTON RINGS) AND still had oil seeping into the coolant somehow.So here I am again. I have a hard time calling a civic a civic when it has some crazy unoriginal bseries or dseries motor in it.

I like the gas mileage on my car too, so Im installing a purchased 45k mile d15bmotor to put back in it. However, the cleanest motor I could find was a slightly newer model of the d15b1 --- I believe the motor I purchased was a d15b2. The engine guy suggested that they don't use the 1 or 2 behined the d15b in japan. He just told me it was newer and tried to jack me for 25 bucks extra!

89 Honda Civic Sedan DX 1.5 [D15B2]

(12/01/07)

Battery removed
All coolant/vaccumm hoses removed (Don't forget to remove the coolant valve on the firewall, you'll bump into clearance issues if you don't!)
Fuel filter removed (don't forget the fuel line(s) on the intake!)
Air box and duct removed
wiring harnessremoved
transmission clutch cable removed
radiator+fans removed
a/c removed (staying removed) Will worry about re-assembley in the summer ;]
Master Cylinder removed (to clear alternator.)
Brake assemblies, front suspension and cv axles removed from both d&p side
Intake Manifold Removed
Exhaust Manifold Removed

(These are not listed in order, you should remove and label each piece with your own system so as to not lose valuble parts.)


Questions:
1) Still looking for an answer on a cleaning solvent to use for the exhaust and intake manifolds.Someonesaid not to worry about it, but I'd rather be safe than sorry.
2) Anyone have any ideas of engnie lift points? I am using a hoist for removal and have not a clue/do not see any places to chain this thing to get it out.
3) The guy at the engine place (Best Japanese Engines Mrietta, GA) says that I need to only replace (from old motor)the Distributor/Intake/Exhaust manifolds in order for this to be a bolt-on project. Can anyone verify or disapprove of this conclusion?
4) Engine guy also says that you can swap in a d16 as a bolt-on only project also, being that the only difference is centimetersin piston size,TRUE or FALSE?

ANSWERS:

1) MK378: Don't worry about the oil in the intake it will clear itself out. The exhaust is probably OK as well. Once you start the new engine it will get hot and burn off any oil. If you weren't getting a CEL on the old engine the O2 sensor is still alright, don't attempt to clean it.

2) TIMMYTIM: Engine lift points are pretty crucial to this project. The main goal when using lift points is to ensure that the engine stays mostly level. I connected to a bolt on the transmission (torward the firewall) and the stud closest to the passenger side on the exhaust manifold. I didn't have an engine lift so I only had one pivot point. Save the headache ... Get an engine hoist

3) TIMMYTIM: Distributor, intake/exhaust manifolds do in fact all bolt up with no modifications. Have not attempted to start vehicle yet, have yet to confirm these will actually swap well together.

4) NO ANSWER

12/03/07

Was able to remove engine today after work...Had a rough time when I forgot to remove the hiding exhaust bracket torwards the bottom/back side of the motor. Ended up wrapping a toe strap around the steel beem in my garage, attached a 1200lb come-along to that, along with a 500lb chain to pull the motor up and out. Turns out when we snagged on the exhaust, we were actuallyraising the car by the exhaust . These aremy trials and tribulations with limited resources. REMINDER: Remove shift rod before removing the motor. You can remove the engine with the shift rod attached, but it's a b*tch to get out and a b*tch to get back in!!! You'll need an 8mm punch to remove the "spring clip". I'll ad updates with pictures to this project later.

I'm actually at a very scary stage for me with this engine replacement... the transmission. Last time I messed with a transmission, I swapped an automatic transmission to a 5speed. The car drove but was very noisy and just simpley didnt feel right. It was obvious that it was from the transmission. --- The car already has a 5 speed (this go-around) so I won't be swappy from auto to manual. I wouldappreciate assistance, tips, tricks, reminders, do's, don'ts regarding the transmission swap from old motor, to the new one. Thanks for any help guys!


================ Fingers tired, uuughhhh.. =============== I'm going to finish this writeup in another post later ==== Let me know if I'm out of line doing this or something. REMEMBER: NEWBIE ON BOARD! Just thought it would be nice for someone else to have this more personable information in the future. Could maybe even move to DIY section? =/

 

Did you read the guidelines?
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_359951/tm.htm
I know what you're doing is a lot of work but it doesn't really fit the "heavily modified vehicles -- ongoing large-scale builds" category.

It would make a nice DIY though, once you work the bugs out.

 

Yaya, thanks.. DIY would be cool ;D I didn't read the guidelines sooo yea... I'll finish it up sometime and maybe someone can consider to the DIY sometime.

 

reason for noise before:

-bad throw out bearing?
-when u take trans. out and put in fill trans with mototr oil.(manual trans)