Fast idle problem
hey just have a small problem with my warm idle...seems to want to idle at 1500. What caused this was I just calibrated my tps sensor, just so everyone knows I adjusted it so at WOT it's at 4.5v. I then checked my closed throttle voltage which was too low (.38v). I adjusted this by turning the throttle stop screw up about a turn or so to get the closed throttle voltage at the correct .48v. After this my idle was obviously higher due to having to adjust the stopper, so I turned the idle screw on the throttle body to lower it but only got a about one turn until it was maxed out. One thing I thought I could mention that someone might be able to figure this out is when I'm driving in gear and shift to neutral, the rpms will for an instant drop down to a normal idle and then immediately shoot up to 1500 at which it stays steady. Could my chipped ecu just need to be adjusted? Could this possibly be a vacuum leak?
Set the throttle stop screw so the throttle plate just touches the body when closed but doesn't slam shut. This should only need done at the factory unless as in your case, someone has been messing with it.
THEN adjust the TPS for 0.5 volts at closed throttle. The WOT reading is what it is going to be, should be around 4.5 volts but need not be exact.
FINALLY warm up the engine and adjust the air screw if necessary. The procedure varies by model year. The A/C, lights, and all electrical accessories should be off.
Older models: Disconnect IACV electrical plug and adjust for 450 rpm.
Newer models (1996 and up?): Adjust air screw as far open as possible but still have proper idle speed.
THEN adjust the TPS for 0.5 volts at closed throttle. The WOT reading is what it is going to be, should be around 4.5 volts but need not be exact.
FINALLY warm up the engine and adjust the air screw if necessary. The procedure varies by model year. The A/C, lights, and all electrical accessories should be off.
Older models: Disconnect IACV electrical plug and adjust for 450 rpm.
Newer models (1996 and up?): Adjust air screw as far open as possible but still have proper idle speed.
Set the throttle stop screw so the throttle plate just touches the body when closed but doesn't slam shut. This should only need done at the factory unless as in your case, someone has been messing with it.
THEN adjust the TPS for 0.5 volts at closed throttle. The WOT reading is what it is going to be, should be around 4.5 volts but need not be exact.
FINALLY warm up the engine and adjust the air screw if necessary. The procedure varies by model year. The A/C, lights, and all electrical accessories should be off.
Older models: Disconnect IACV electrical plug and adjust for 450 rpm.
Newer models (1996 and up?): Adjust air screw as far open as possible but still have proper idle speed.
THEN adjust the TPS for 0.5 volts at closed throttle. The WOT reading is what it is going to be, should be around 4.5 volts but need not be exact.
FINALLY warm up the engine and adjust the air screw if necessary. The procedure varies by model year. The A/C, lights, and all electrical accessories should be off.
Older models: Disconnect IACV electrical plug and adjust for 450 rpm.
Newer models (1996 and up?): Adjust air screw as far open as possible but still have proper idle speed.
So I fixed the idle problem by backing out the throttle stop screw which allowed the throttle plate to fully close. The closed throttle voltage for the tps is now .37 and WOT is 4.5V. I know the CT voltage should be .48, but is that a big deal? The car will now idle smooth, have it set to about 800rpm while warm.
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honvic
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