Hi, I got a new civic which just went past 5000 miles. The salesman told me I should keep the first oil in longer than 5000 before I changed it. Is there a special oil in the engine when it comes from the factory that would be good to keep in there for awhile?

Also, I want to use a teflon treatment on the engine. Is it OK to teflon the engine at the first oil change? Also, is synthetic oil worth it?

 

They say teflon treatment are just snake oil that doesn't work. I asked about Slick50 on the Cleanmpg.com forum and they said don't use it!

 

Thanks, I've always been a little su****ious of teflon treatments. I don't see how they can get something so slippery to stick to anything that is already covered with oil. That's on the bearings. I also suspect that it would get burned off of the cylinder walls and do no good there either.

What I used to put in my engines back in the good old days is the black Power Punch oil additive. It was actually made for extreme use in gearboxes but I put it in my engine oil. It's black because it has molybdenum disulfide in it, which is also known as engine assembly lube. It is so slippery that if you put it in engines from when they were new then they would never get broken in.

I wonder if the metalic properties of the molybdenum would damage catalysts or emision systems in the new cars though - Any Ideas Anyone???

 

I've never heard of that one before. Could be true or it could just be the salesman trying to be smart mabye someone else on here will know. And yes sytheic oil is totally worth it. Read up on it.

 

Well there's a good reason you never heard of it before, and that's because I invented it =) Also, the salesman thought it was wrong, which I took as a good sign. Keep in mind this was in the good old days of very high torque and no catalysts.

Molybdenum disulfide is/was used as a special engine assembly lubricant for rebuilt engines, to provide lubrication to brand new engines before the oil from the pump hit the moving parts. It prevents new and possibly overly tight parts from seizing during those important first minutes of operation. It's also an extreme pressure gear lubricant which will more or less stop wear and tear in manual transmissions in normal service. Don't put it in an automatic or you will need all new clutches instantly.

 

I'd get the first oil out as soon as possible. Who knows what crud is left over from manufacturing?

I wouldn't use synthetic or additives until around 20K miles though. I used Duralube in my vehicles without any problems. I wouldn't trust teflon.

 

Thanks for the info. I changed my first oil on the honda today and I was surprised at how black it was. it seems to me that in all the other new cars I've had that in the first oil changes the oil was pretty clean. Maybe the oil is so dirty because it's thiner than horse ****??

I don't like that really thin oil and will not use 5/20. I put about half and half 10/30 and 10/40 in it but I had to use 20/50 for the last quart because i ran out of the other stuff. That little sucker takes a lot of oil. Hopefully the thicker oil won't get dirty so fast, but I'm glad I changed it when I did I and didn't wait like the salesman told me to.

 

I know on bikes, if new, or if you've had a bunch of engine work done, I always change the oil within the first 100 miles, then again at 600, then again at 1k, thats' all with regular (dino) oil. After that it's every 3k for oil changes. And I usually run the dino oil through it untill 10k then switch over to synthetic. But this is on oil cooled bikes, so I'm not sure if what I do is recommended for a car.

 

I wouldn't put anything thicker than 10W30 in there. 20W50 should be used only in old worn out engines that burn thin oil like crazy. If you don't use the specified oil in a new car you void the warranty on any internal engine problems.