Prior to you purchasing a new EACV, my recommendation would be that you first try:

1) cleaning the EACVs you have with carburetor cleaner (see forum DIY). This might fix the problem.

2) bleeding the cooling system of possible trapped air. Unimpeded coolant flow through the EACV (& fast idle valve) and past the coolant temperature sensor is required for proper idle control.

3) looking carefully for an intake air system leak (IM or throttle body gaskets).

(Please turn OFF the caps lock key on your keyboard.)

 

so it still idoling funny. up and down about 500 rpms. i used about a half can of carb cleaner on the eacv still no difference. i bleed the coolant system and i dont see or hear any vaccum leak from intake or throttal body. any other thoughts. still need to fix. when i turn it on it idols fine rev it a couple times it will idol up and down a couple times then leval out if i drive it whatso ever when clutch is pressed or throw it in to neatural it starts reving up and down

also i did find that the throttal ajusting screw is busted off. so the butterfly kinda sticks shut sometimes what sounds like a better ghetto fix. 1- bend the bottom of the little wheel deal the throtal cable attaches to, the part that sits on the screw just enough that it dosent close compleatly or 2- jb weld a little bolt or somthing on to it tohold it open slightly.

 

Does putting your finger over the port in the throttle body leading to the fast idle valve stop the idle fluctuation (see manual)? If so, the fast idle valve is the problem.

With respect to the idle adjustment screw in the throttle body, you definitely need to get this problem fixed. In addition, a sticky throttle body plate can sometimes be fixed by carefully cleaning the throttle body with carburetor cleaner, assuming that there isn't a more important physical obstruction. Also check whether the throttle cable is adjusted too loose or too tight (see manual).

You can check for intake air and vacuum leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner around the throttle body and IM gaskets and vacuum connections. Any change in idle speed would suggest the presence of a leak.

 

That stop screw needs to be adjusted so the throttle plate just closes but doesn't slam shut. Letting it slam shut will cause it to get stuck. The throttle plate stop is not used to adjust the idle speed. Also check that your TPS sensor is still in calibration if you've been messing with the throttle plate.

If you disconnect the wire to the IACV, does it idle steady then? With the wire off, you should be able to adjust the speed with the air screw on the top of the throttle body. Set it for a slower than normal idle. Then when you reconnect the wire it should pick up and regulate at normal idle speed.

 

yeah we tried that. its screwed all the way in if you unscrew it at all it just idols higher. if i unhook the iacv it idols fine but drives like crap. i didnt check the fast idol, i'll check it after work. it is also idoling at 1100 rpms instead of 700 like it used to. obviously the cable is fine if the butterfly is able to slam shut it has the proper adj. to it. any ideas on that as well. or does that have to do with the higher volume of air going into the motor?

with regards to the throtal it slams shut i did clean it figuring that was the original problem. it doesnt always stick cuz it doesnt always slam shut. but i figured jb welding a little peice of metal below it that posistions itso it wont slam shut.

 

In general, I would recommend that you avoid this type of improvising.

After you test the fast idle valve by covering the port with your finger, then next do the same for the EACV port. You may possibly find that you have two separate problems, where one idle control is causing the idle fluctuation problem while the other is causing the high idle problem.

 

i did covered the eacv port with my finger with no change so on my smoke break im gonna go try out the fast idol port see what happens