Got a 93 Civic EX 133K on the odometer.

I am going to get some new tires soon, partially due to the front end alignment causing the tires to wear on the inner sides. I know a lot about cars but I know practically nothing about suspension systems. I don't want to get shafted on the price because of this, but is there any "kit" that is needed when aligning these cars? I've heard of kits for other vehicles but I don't know if that is their term for extremely overpriced washers.

I've looked under there myself, and I don't see what is adjusted when they align the suspension. What exactly do they do?

The alignment will cost me about $60, which is fair IMO, but I don't want to be treated like an old rich lady when it comes to something I know nothing about.

 

The toe-in is the only parameter that is normally adjustable. This is done by turning the threaded ends on the tie rods (to the steering rack) in or out. Improper toe will make your tires wear like that so that may be all you need.

Unless the car has been crashed or the suspension bent or worn, the other parameters should stay in line from the factory.

 

So I am wondering if it would hurt to loosen each tierod 1 turn.

That being said, the steering wheel is a few degrees turned to the left when I am driving in a straight line. Everything on the car front end seems to be original (bumper etc) so I don't think it has been wrecked. What caused the wheel to turn? It has been like that since I bought the car last year.

 

Also a guy I talked to said that the rear would have to be done too, as it somehow affects the front. I am thinking this is crap and they just want extra money. Does the rear alignment have anything to do with the front?

 

If the rack and pinion was replaced, the guys who did the job could have messed it up. The same was true when I bought my old 2000 DX. The guys who replaced it for the previous owner didn't reattach the steering column properly, so when it was first turned out on the road, the cable reel behind the airbag broke, causing it to have no horn and no airbag.

What I ended up doing after I replaced the cable reel was adjusting the steering column. I had the tires aligned to straight and loosened a bolt or something at the bottom of the column so I could turn the wheel freely. I aligned it straight and put the bolt back in. Might be something similar on the 5th gen.

 

You can't just turn it blindly, may make things worse instead of better. Unfortunately you have to pay someone with an alignment rack.

If the steering wheel is just a little off center you can turn the tie rods equally on both sides. For example if the car goes to the left with the wheel held straight, turn the left one to bring that wheel to the right (make it longer) and turn the right one to also bring that wheel to the right (make it shorter). That changes the wheel position without changing the toe-in much.

Then have the alignment done. Just the front is fine if the rear tires don't wear unevenly.

 

Thank you all for your help.

I think I may eventually adjust the wheel position.

Was talking with dad, and we concluded that since it's my beater car, we're just going to let the alignment stay the way it is. The tires were basically in new shape when we got the car a year ago, and I have done a TON of driving since then. I figure if I can get another year like that for ~$300 then it will still be worth it in gas savings.

 

well a wheel alignment is very simple... 60bucks is typical price for a wheel alignment. if your balljoints are all good then its a simple adjustment... and definatly cheaper than buying new tires over and over. toe is what typical will eat up your tires. toe can be thrown off any anything when driving... hiting pot holes, speed bumps anything can wiggle some parts, bolts, threads around... youd be suprised what alittle turn can do to throw a alignment off.