I hooked my car to a scan tool and it gave an error.... I figure it is because my ECU is a chipped p28 and it has an obd 2 to obd 1 jumper and all that BS . The light does't blink or anything like that . I know it is very annoying that I paid four thousand bucks to get my **** rebuilt and I isn't running correctly ya know . So how do I go about pulling the codes if the scan tool doesn't read ??????

 

On an OBD1 system, you jumper the 2-wire test plug and turn the key on, and the CEL will blink. Hopefully you still have a test plug in the conversion harness. On a stock setup it is right next to the ECU.

 

Nope the test plug isn't there . Is there another way to check it ??????? I would love to know what those 2 plugs plug into that aren't plugged in????? They are directly under the intake manifold and one has a little bracket and one doesn't ???? I just burned the **** out of my hand looking under my hood.

 

Someone can look up which pin of the ECU activates the test mode. All the test plug does is connect one pin of the ECU to ground. I'll check back later.

Extra plug might be for the second O2 sensor, which is not used with OBD1. You may also have wiring for a crank position sensor, also not used with OBD1. Do you see any sensors with no plugs on them? Many cars have extra plugs on the harness.

On the back of the engine you have the oil pressure switch, knock sensor, and alternator. On the thermostat housing is the fan switch and ground wires. On the manifold you have the intake air temperature sensor, idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, and I think the canister solenoid. On the side of the head under the distributor are 2 temperature sensors. Also the wire for the O2 sensor should go around there and connect to the sensor at the front. There are 2 wires for the reverse lights (do your reverse lights work?)

 

The reverse lights work . From what I can tell the connectors are all connected . I am thinking that if the check engine light goes out that my vtec will engage ya know . I was looking at the VTEC solenoid and the connection THE GREEN CONNECTION is loose . The little clip isn't on there . Maybe that could be the problem ????????? Dude I really appreciate the help buddy .

 

The test connector should be connected to pin D4 on the ECU (brown wire). The other wire is a green/white wire that is signal ground on pin D22. Connecting D4 to D22 (or ground) should engage the test mode.

 

Ok now it has developed a knock when I hit like 3000rpm ???? I really can't afford to take it to the shop again . I wish that it would just run correctly .

 

I am going to get another motor . I would like to know if anyone has a B16 for sale THAT RUNS DECENTLY . It can be all stock or whatever . My GS-R is FUBARD .

 

try ebay found some there about 13.00 each green top ones?

 

Ihave a 2002 Honda accord VIN 1HGCG32642A013358 and had to replace the motor in it with VIN 1HGCG5641XA155212

Reason I putting the VIN in here is cause of getting the check engine light to go out getting 3 error codes one being the knock sensor, replaced the knock sensor twice just because check wiring (car shop did) said wiring was ok. My thinking was maybe the wiring pin might be different on the 2 cars? any ideas I can afford to pay $85.00 a hour to just start digging around.......sigh
error codes are, PO325 (knock sensor bank 1) PO700 (Transmission control system) P1739 (TCM A/T controller circuit)

Just replaced the knock sensor again day ago but cleared the error codes and did no good they cam back, not sure what to do at this point car seems to run great trans may be shifting little funny but that might be me an being used to a 1/2 ton truck. But anyway anyone have any ideas out there where to look or to check out so I can point the mechanic in the right direction.............help please