oh and one ? the tps mounting screws are like riveted in so if its bad whats the deal there thanks again

 

Those are screws not rivets. Most people score a straight line groove into them with a Dremel tool and then unscrew them with a screwdriver. But don't do this unless the TPS tests bad.

 

the tps checks good ,.....could there still be air in the coolant ? i parked on a hill and let it run with the cap off for like 45min but the fan never came on ,...till i pulled up on even ground and put the cap on then they decided to come on ,....could it be to bad iacv in a row?? does my car have a fitv ? ,.....thanks for the help

 

The stock 98 Civic does not have a FITV. It would not hurt to try bleeding the cooling system again exactly as described below. However, first test the 2-wire ECT sensor under the distributor. Let the engine reach full operating temperature, turn the engine off, and unplug the ECT sensor connector. The measure resistance across the two terminals of the ECT sensor itself. It should read 200-400 Ohms.

Also, what happens to the idle speed when you unplug the IACV? Also mention what transmission that you have.


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The bleeding procedure may take 20-30 minutes:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below

 

ok i will bleed it again ,....what is the etc sensor ?? or what color wires do i look for ? ,...... i tryed to unplug the iacv on the first one but not this one (on the first one nothing happen) i will try it on this one and see what happens ,.....not sure what tranny it is but there is a number on it on a green tag in front that reads

.1hg j8242ylo78146

if that helps ,.... i really appreciate all the help

 

The only thing that matters about the transmission here is whether it's manual or automatic.

The ECT sensor is screwed into the end of the head beneath the distributor, actually there are two sensors there. The ECT is the one toward the front of the car and has two wires. Your engine does properly warm up to normal operating temperature (halfway up the gauge) and stay there, right?

 

If the ECT sensor tests fine, then you would next start looking carefully for an intake air/vacuum leak from the TB or IM gasket or a vacuum hose. If there are no leaks, the last step is to attempt to adjust the idle to spec with the screw on the TB. The procedure is different for a MT versus AT, so that's why I need this information.

Edit: The VIN you posted indicates that you have a 2000 EX coupe with an automatic transmission. Is this correct? By the way, you may want to delete the VIN that you posted as this is personal information you may not want on the internet.

Here is the proper procedure for setting the idle speed:

 

its a automatic and the motor was replaced with a jdm d15b if that makes a difference ,...i found the sensor and it shows 408 ohm ,.....and the gauge goes about 3/8 the way,...thanks

 

ok so i check the ect its at 408 ohm ,...and so i rest the ecm cpu and is running now bleeding the coolant and the fans still haven't came on ,......and i did adjust the idle screw it brought it down to 6-700 ish but i turned it all the way to the right .......i will finish bleeding the system and start checking for leaks and follow the procedure for the idle screw and wight back with the results ,...thanks again for the help

 

The ECT is just slightly out of spec, so I'd look elsewhere for now.

1) Rebleed the cooling system exactly as I described.

2) With the engine fully warm and idling, disconnect the IACV plug. Does the idle speed decrease or increase?

3) If you completely cover the top of the TB with your hand with the engine idling, can you kill the engine? If not, you have a major air leak.

4) Attempt to adjust the idle speed exactly as indicated in the diagram.