ok guys im usually never on here but i need some help from someone who knows more about these cars than I, i recently just did a compression test on my 95 honda civic ex with 196k miles to see how she was holding up, it read high 80's accross all cylinders dry, so i when i went to go put the spark plugs back in i might have put a little to much anti-seize on them but i doubt that would hurt anything the only other thing was i was trying to remove the big gray plug next to the distributor cap and didn't realize how to seperate them until after the fact so i just left it on with the spark wires dangling while i did the compression test, so when i went to go turn the car back on after my test it won't start, after all this work i just did to it this weekend, (replaced the LCA bushings and wheel bearing) and now just out of curiosity i did a compression test and now im out of a car again for now, so i checked the spark at the plugs with the plug connected to the wire and nothing, so tomorrow ill get a tester and test the ignition coil on the distributor but i don't understand what would have happened to cause the car to have no spark, it makes no sense, ugh im just frustrated, definitely wish i would have left that compression test alone now! lol any help or guidance would be much appreciated since im only used to COP not distributors

 

You need a new coil. Firing into an open circuit will ruin them. It's essential to disconnect the power to the distributor during a compression test. Also the oft-quoted ohmmeter test of a coil is not very useful, it will say that a lot of bad coils are good.

By the way, compression of 80 psi is not good.

 

Thanks man it was the coil I replaced it and fired right up and now out of no where the car is acting weird it's never done this before it's like bucking I have a 5 speed and when I put it in first it takes off like im releasing the clutch to early and Ive been driving this car for years without ever having tha problem could it be something I did with the test also or maybe bad spark plugs its like I press the pedal down and it doesn't fully accelerate until a few seconds to respond fully like it used to but I did change all my belts and I might have over tightened them a tad but I don't think that would have anything to do with it but just trying to give u guys all the info and I know it's not my clutch or Trans bc they were just fixed a few thousands miles ago with a fixed Trans when it broke down about a year ago thanks guys for any help I'm Gona replace my plugs since I haven't done that since I owned the car nearly 80k miles ago

 

If it shakes (misfires) at low rpm and heavy throttle, that's almost always weak sparks. It could be a bad spark plug wire. The spark wires are the most fragile part of the system and you can't tell if they are bad or good by looking. Replace the plugs also of course.

 

hey mk37 thanks bro deffinately was the plugs put new ones in and works amazing no more rough idle or anything, although my oil light is always flickering at idle but not at speed or in gear or when i rev it it goes away, it has been doing that for at least 30k miles now but i know the engine it going to get sometime soon, i just don't know how soon, i drove it on the highway hit 100 in 5th at like 4k rpms or something, ran super smooth, im thinking of checking the oil pressure, what should that be at?! im thinking maybe the screen or pump needs to be replaced?? maybe the oil pan gasket??! idk kinda need some ideas to where this oil is going bc i just got an oil change yesterday so it has oil its perfect on the dipstick but the light still flickers so any thoughts?!