OK, explain the 'jumpering' proceedure to me. How do I do that? Where is the test plug?

Compression should be ok as the engine was running well before the distributor failed. The fuel in the fuel rail is clean & new. Do those injector pins only move a very small amount?

 

Sounds like the injectors are OK. The pin only moves slightly. The real check is to put some liquid in the inlet end and see if it can run thru.

To check the codes, find the ECU which in a US model is on the right side panel under the dash under the carpet. The wiring harness above the ECU has a couple of test plugs that aren't plugged into anything. These will be tucked in right where the bottom of the dash meets the top of the carpet. You want the smaller one with two wires. With the key off, connect a jumper wire between the two pins then turn the key on but do not crank the engine. The check engine light will flash out codes if there are any. If there aren't it will just light up steady. There are some FAQs on this site about how to read and interpret the codes.

Another possibility is that mice destroyed some of the wiring or hoses while the car was idle. Really it is best to assume nothing at this point and treat this as if someone just gave you the car and no one knows why it won't start.

 

Actually, that's the situation!! Will go for the ECU code test first, just in case. Thanks