All this work to find a bolt. What a pain. lol

p.s. who is that in your avatar?

 

You were right, I had parts 14 and 17 ordered and installed, which fixed the squealing issue, but now there's an electrical problem arising because every time I hit a bump, all of the lights (including interior) will flash and then continue to stay lit, unless I lock the doors with the remote control.

After driving the car for an extended amount of time, every time I slow down from highway speed, or I stop at a stop sign or a red light, it will want to stall. When I go to accelerate, it will stall out. After restarting, I have to rev the car in neutral and while holding the accelerator down I have to push it into gear to get it going again or it will stall out.

 

check your grounds, make sure there is a ground wire going from - on bat to trans and a - going from bat to body, also make sure the ground connections are good on the thermostat housing.

 

Hmm, that's very strange to me. I am not sure what it could be.

 

Stalling at stoplights is classically because of the IACV-- if it really is that, the car will otherwise drive OK as long as you keep pressing on the gas. So since you're saying "when I go to accelerate, it will stall out", that suggests it is something else, maybe a general electrical problem. Start by checking the connections on the battery.

 

We checked the plugs, they look fine. After this we're going to do as 94civichatchback had suggested and go check the battery grounds . Does anyone think this could be a problem with the alternator? It seems a bit strange that all of these electrical issues started happening after the alternator bolt fell out and we put a new one in.

 

We finally gave up on finding any shorts or wiring issues. I took the car to a local shop to get fixed. He found that the negative battery terminal wire was loose and after tightening, it seemed to fix the electrical issue. But, the car still bogs and wants to stall, so that issue was not solved. He tried putting a new distributor in and that didn't work. Next he put the car on his scan tool and he said the output showed that the barometric pressure sensor and the manifold pressure sensor were outputting numbers that were far apart. He said these numbers are suppose to be relatively close. The scan tool recommended installing a new computer as the first approach to fixing the problem. He contacted the distributors to get a price for a new computer. Unfortunately, the distributors do not sell a computer that matches the part number for the computer on the car. He contacted Honda and they did have the computer and said it was the correct one for that car.

My options are to either send the computer out to get rebuilt or order the one from the dealer. The rebuild company says there is an 80% chance of successfully rebuilding the computer. But, they cannot give a price quote since they do not know what is wrong with it. A new computer from the dealer is $589.

My dilema is, the mechanic is not positive that the computer is the problem, he is going by the scan tool since he could not figure it out. To make matters worse, Honda policy states that after opening the computer seal, you cannot return the computer and are stuck with it. So, if I get the new computer and it does not work, I still have to pay for it and pay for whatever does fix the issue.

Any suggestions? The computer part # is: 37820P2EA73

 

DO NOT buy a new computer. Or even a remanufactured one. Waste of money. There are plenty of good used ones floating around the Honda-Tech marketplace. I'm not entirely convinced that its the computer. One of those sensors could easily be sending bad signals to the computer, causing the issue.

 

just goto ebay.com what year and engine is your civic, ill find you one.


here is a ecu that works for your car assuming you have a automatic.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...Q5fAccessories

 

My civic is a 1997 Civic LX 4 Door Sedan Automatic. The computer you linked has a slightly different part # than mine. My part # is 37820P2EA73 and the linked one is 37820P2EL72. Would that still work in my car regardless?