I'm having a no-start problem once in a while with my '95 Civic. Always when cold, never happens when the motor is warm/hot. It "appears to be", but not definitely related to rainy/humid weather, not sure if this is a contributing factor (may just be coincidence). The engine cranks over at good speed fine, but won't fire. Spark is good at the plugs, inside of the dizzy is bone dry and clean, plug wires are in good condition. Eventually after a while, after numerous attempts, it will start right up. No sputtering, misfiring or rough running, just lights off and drive away like nothing was wrong. CEL always comes on then goes out after 2-3 secs when the key is first switched on, you can hear fuel pump hum up to pressure. I always give it a moment to pressurise before starting anyway, old habit.

I'm beginning to suspect the main relay, I have looked for it but have no idea where to find it. It's a '95 4 door LX sedan, auto, D15B7 motor. The ECU I believe is behind the passenger footwell. Is the main relay near this? Really need to check this more closely so I don't get stranded somewhere. Can the relay be opened up and buff the contacts clean, or just replace it? How much do they go for? Thanks!

 

its under dash behind fuse box. some really good members have some for sale in their for sale thread. it could be the relay.

 

yea i had the exact same thing b4 and it was the main relay
and mine had the no start when it was raining thing too

 

I had the exact same problem also. But my issue was the valve clearense. I'de check it first before you go and buy anything. it's costless if u got the right tools and it only takes about an hour or so to do...

 

Sounds like that's what it is then, if more than a few of us got the same thing happening. I read Tegger's guide, shows cracked/failed solder joints on the relay board due to vibration. I'll hafta' get myself under the dash and check it. Was there a few weeks ago, my brake lights came on due to the plastic mushroom for the brake light switch crumbled. Fixed it with an 8mm bolt/nut, buffed off the stamping from the bolt head, works perfect. $1.06 at the hardware store!

 

OK, I looked at a number of places that show a really good look at the relay, should be right behind the hood release lever? Mounting bolt is tight to get to. Does it have to be bolted to the body for grounding, or can you just ziptie it up after repair/replace to avoid messing with that bolt? Make life easier and help prevent vibration fatigue issues?

 

The relay will work with the bolt out, but it would be better to put the bolt back in. Vibration can be more of a problem when it is not securely attached.

 

It just looks like such a PITA to get at that bolt, may have to do some plastic removal without destroying anything. Definitely get the hood pop lever off first. Guess it's done well this long that way. Probably funky solder like I'm seeing in the tutorials. Have to pop it out and desolder one-at-a-time/re-solder any questionable junctions. Be nice to have a spare in case it's really bad or I fubar it. Kind of a critical component. Without it you aren't going anywhere!