Check whether applying silicone grease to sleeves A and B, the pin boot, and the sleeve boots (see first diagram) fixes your brake problem.

 

Are these the bolts?
If so, they are definitely rusted on this side. The caliper on the other side of the car has these bolts that are shiny and covered in a silvery grease material!

Is this the problem?

 

Yes, grease those boots and sleeves as indicated in the diagram, and hope for the best. The caliper looks pretty trashed so, if greasing doesn't fix the problem, you may need to replace the caliper, as mentioned by others.

 

That is a problem, though it may not be the problem. A quality rebuilt caliper will come with new bolts, etc. too so you could replace the whole thing.

 

If you ultimately decide to replace the caliper, note that you'll subsequently need to bleed the hydraulic brake system of air.

 

I think I have to replace the caliper

I tryed to take those two pins out and it appears they snapped off!

So now it seems like a complete caliper replacement is in order. As well as a lug nut stud replacement as one of those broke off.

Any tips on the caliper would be appreciated! I had a problem once before with bleeding brake lines after i replaced a caliper. (I haven't even gotten to the back yet!)

Thanks for any replys!

Broken Lug nut stud;

 

For the lug nut stud, remove rotor screws and then the rotor. Check whether you can find a turn position where the wheel stud can be pounded out and the new one reinserted. If not, the entire wheel hub will need to be removed and the front hub pressed out.

 

Put PB blaster on those rotor screws and let it soak for awhile, and then go get a $10.00 "impact driver" set. It is a set of screwdriver bits that sit in a holder made for hitting it with a hammer. Select the phillips head that best fits, ensure that the driver is set for loosening, place the assembly into the screw securely, then smack it smartly with a 2lb sledge hammer. This is your best chance for removing those screws without stripping them and running into more problems.

Good call all on it being his pins.

 

It's fixed!

It was the bottom pin that was stuck.
I put vice grips on it and loosened it. Then I tapped on the vice grips to get the pin out.
I cleaned down the pin, put some lube on it and put everything back together.
Another thing I did was I noticed the outboard pad was really tight in the clips where it is supposed to slide. I smoothed down the clips and also noticed an ever so slight raised edge on the top and bottom of the pad where it sits in the clips to slide. I very slightly used a flat file to smooth this off and now the pad slides into the clips much easier.

The pin that was stuck is on the left, the pin on the right is silvery-grey with grease. Regarding the lug-nut stud. I think it is a floating rotor and that I don't have to remove the screws, sound right?

 

Congratulations on the DIY fix!

Those rusty screws must be removed because they secure the rotor against the hub/knuckle. What I am unsure about is whether the entire knuckle must be removed in order to replace the lug bolts.