Hey guys, this one's tough, if you could offer any assistance, I'd be greatful.

My car stalled on me, and I haven't been able to restart it. Was running flawless, then just sputtered for 2 secs and cut out.


I did ignition coil test, seemed to be out on both limits, so I installed a new one. Did test again. It was still out of the limit on one side, but?? New coil anyway.

I re-installed distributer, plug wires etc. But it wouldn't start up.

I then check for sparks off the wires using a spare plug. I'm getting sparks.

I cracked the nut on top of the fuel filter, turned ignition on, and I had a good amount fuel coming out, so I am damn sure the filter is .

This left me puzzled. I went to do the Diagnostic test (PGM-FI control system trouble-shooting, Voltage test, PG 11-30 of manual), on the ECU, then I realized I don't have the wiring harness needed for the test.

I am lost, what do you guys make of this?????

 

checking for spark is much better done w/ a spark tester... the spare plug approach will work but if the output voltage was low but existent (i.e. 4000 volts instead of 15,000) it would still fire the spare plug and appear to have no problems... but at the end of the compression stroke, 4000 volts isn't going to fire the plug in the cylinder...
a spark tester won't fire unless its getting about 20,000 volts... the one I have looks like a spark plug a/ a funny clip on it.. very cheap too.

 

Check your timing belt it may have sliped. SAME EXACT story as yours and it was the timing belt.

 

When you turn the key to ON(II), do you hear the fuel pump prime for 2 seconds?

Is the CEL ON?

 

even try your ignition control module way deep into the disturber its like 100$ to replace but pretty simple to takeout as well 2 screws.

 

Thanks for the help people. I haven't been able to solve the problem however. If the timing belt has slipped... I'll be damned. It was replaced just a few months back too.

I'm hoping the mechanics will be able to get it sorted out. Oh, and I never had any kind of ECU code.

I have not carried through with the spark plug voltage test... or replaced the 'ignition control module'.

If I take the valve cover & belt cover off will I be able to verify whether the timing is still correct, or would that require more work?

 

What year/engine Civic?

Do you have spark at all four plugs? Is the spark bright white/bluish or weak orange in color?

You need to pull off the valve cover and the upper timing belt cover to check the mechanical timing. Note that you must only turn the crank counterclockwise to position the crank pulley at TDC1.

 

The car is being inspected in the shop now.

I was just informed the compression is ranging from 60-120psi between cylinders....

Mechanic said the belt may have slipped, certainly isn't broken. When we attempt to start, seems to be turned over quicker than usual....

He said we will re-built the distributer. Ignition coil is new... and igniter should be fine since we have spark...

Think engine is broke.... It looks like it may be due for a rebuild. any good links around, or sources for engine parts upgrades etc?

 

all of this non-sense and fuss, just to find out it was the whole distributer unit needed to be replaced. The mechanic threw on another unit to see if we could get the car running, and sure enough....

I hope this thread will assist others if they find themselves in a similar circumstance.

The disturbing compression tests were a result of fuel in the cylinders.

This was a sickeningly expensive repair, but still better then a slipped up timing belt.

 

Shouldn't have been too expensive, unless you went to the wrong mechanic... Mind if I ask what he charged you to do a distributor?