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Steering Joint?

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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Default Steering Joint?

Could someone tell me what this joint in the red circle is called, and if i need to replace it it it is loose? i tried to get some grease in there but i dont think it helped much, im pretty sure it being loose is what is sometimes pulling my wheel to the side when braking hard...

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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Turtlegrip
Could someone tell me what this joint in the red circle is called, and if i need to replace it it it is loose? i tried to get some grease in there but i dont think it helped much, im pretty sure it being loose is what is sometimes pulling my wheel to the side when braking hard...

inner tie rod end. sounds weird i know.
hard braking, turning... that was a CV joint issue on my vehicle. check your CV boots to see if they are torn or leaking grease if you haven't already
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 07:31 PM
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with the wheel off and it on JACK STANDS, grab the rotor and try to turn it back and forth, as in the way it turn when you turn the wheel. If there is alot of play, then the inner tie rod need to be changed... check both sides.... im not sure how much play is ok, but call around to tire shops, odds are, someone gives free estimates. here all the shops wanted between 260 and 300 to change both left and right inners.

as for the pulling when breaking hard, it could be that, the CV joints as zerojett said, or it could be the breaks... maybe one rotor is warped, or worn more then the other, one caliper could be slightly sticking... again, this is where the free estimates come in handy
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:38 PM
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On the jack stand it has quite a bit of play, and the hard braking only pulls on roads that are warped, (a lot around here) and so i think it pulls because the play on this goes slightly to the left, but maybe it is the cv, either way i have planned on getting new axles and i guess the tie rod will just have to set me back a little. hopefully i can get it for cheaper, ill probably just have my mechanic do a few things like the control arm bushings and what not at the same time and see if i can get a deal. thanks for the responses!
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 08:45 PM
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yeah, if theres play, change the inner tie rod. that can/will also cause faster tire ware because it wont hold the toe angle... i would check the other side to, for play. If you on a budget, you may be able to get by with just changing one, but the both have the same miles, odds are the other one probably isnt far behind
 
Old Apr 14, 2011 | 01:35 PM
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taking this thread a little off topic, but still relevant.
Inner tie rod ends are like 78$ online, i can get a whole rank and pinion off my same model from local shop for 100$, probably just take off the tie rod and mechanic wants 40$ to toss it on, seems legit to me, and ill have other extra rank and pinion parts, cant hurt right? BUT should i, or can i even, take a rack and pinion from, say, a GRS and throw it in, or is there no point to any of that if it even is possible... Just curious because im going to be getting this done sometime next week since its my schools spring break.
 
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