stupid heater
allright so i was on my way to go sledding and i had my heater on full blast to warm up the car. about 1/4 mile away from my house my heater just turns off. i turn the car off and back on and nothing. no air whatsoever. any ideas where to even start looking. i have an 89 honda civic si
i think i found the blower motor. looks like it is behind the glovebox but i am going to have to pull out the whole system because the blower motor ends up getting caught up on the floorboard. also to remove the whole box am i going to empty the refrigerent for the AC?
news update: i decided i wanted to check to see if there was any sort of voltage at the fuse. turns out there is no voltage to the 30A heater motor fuse.
i am not sure how that is wired though. does it go 12V-------Heater blower fuse--------heater controls--------blower-----ground?
i know that there are probably more grounds and stuff involved but that should be the basis
news update: i decided i wanted to check to see if there was any sort of voltage at the fuse. turns out there is no voltage to the 30A heater motor fuse.
i am not sure how that is wired though. does it go 12V-------Heater blower fuse--------heater controls--------blower-----ground?
i know that there are probably more grounds and stuff involved but that should be the basis
Is the problem that your blower motor fails to run?
Do you have an 89 Civic? If so, troubleshoot the problem as detailed in the pictures. The problem is likely either the blower motor or the blower switch. By the way, what exact test did you do to show that fuse 19 (30A) lacks battery voltage?

Do you have an 89 Civic? If so, troubleshoot the problem as detailed in the pictures. The problem is likely either the blower motor or the blower switch. By the way, what exact test did you do to show that fuse 19 (30A) lacks battery voltage?

thanks ronj! that is what i have been looking for all night long. well i kinda tested my fuse in a funky unorthodox way. what i did was i have a test light with an alligator clip on one end. so what i did was took the 30A fuse out and stuck a folded out paperclip in one slot of the fuse holder. then i attached the alligator clip to the other end of the alligator clip. then i stuck the needle part of the test light in the empty fuse slot. its kinda hard to explain. but just to see if it worked i tried it on my instrument panel fuse and it worked wonderfully. like i said it is kinda a funky way to do it
It's difficult for me to visualize exactly what you did; however, I think your test light would only have turned ON if the ignition key was ON, the blower switch was turned ON, and the blower worked.
Here's a better way to test whether fuse 19 is receiving power:
1) Remove fuse 19.
2) Turn the ignition key to ON.
3) Touch the battery-side terminal of fuse 19 to one electrode of the test light.
4) Touch the other electrode of the test light to the metallic surface (not painted) of the framework under the dash.
The test light should turn ON if fuse 19 is receiving battery power, which it likely is.
During this test, verify that fuse 19 is not blown. If not, perform the tests in the pictures shown in my earlier post.
Here's a better way to test whether fuse 19 is receiving power:
1) Remove fuse 19.
2) Turn the ignition key to ON.
3) Touch the battery-side terminal of fuse 19 to one electrode of the test light.
4) Touch the other electrode of the test light to the metallic surface (not painted) of the framework under the dash.
The test light should turn ON if fuse 19 is receiving battery power, which it likely is.
During this test, verify that fuse 19 is not blown. If not, perform the tests in the pictures shown in my earlier post.
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Mar 28, 2010 07:12 PM




