They did now they dont
#1
12-03-2013, 11:37 AM
They did now they dont
thanks for looking,
08 civic ex, bought it couple weeks ago.
The inside lights used to come on when I opened the doors(yes I have it switched to door), also made a chime if you left the keys in or lights on.
life was good.
then I was playing with the key fob and hit the panic button it started raising hell, things aren't the same now 
Now the inside lights will come on when I use the fob, but when they fade
out it auto locks my doors, self arms, also if you get out and leave the keys and the headlight on it used to chime. I've disconnected the battery for a cpl hours to no avail. though i'd ask ya'll fine people, just trying to get it back to how it was.
08 civic ex, bought it couple weeks ago.
The inside lights used to come on when I opened the doors(yes I have it switched to door), also made a chime if you left the keys in or lights on.
life was good.
then I was playing with the key fob and hit the panic button it started raising hell, things aren't the same now Now the inside lights will come on when I use the fob, but when they fade
out it auto locks my doors, self arms, also if you get out and leave the keys and the headlight on it used to chime. I've disconnected the battery for a cpl hours to no avail. though i'd ask ya'll fine people, just trying to get it back to how it was.
#2
12-04-2013, 07:45 AM
thanks for looking,
08 civic ex, bought it couple weeks ago.
The inside lights used to come on when I opened the doors(yes I have it switched to door), also made a chime if you left the keys in or lights on.
life was good. then I was playing with the key fob and hit the panic button it started raising hell, things aren't the same now
Now the inside lights will come on when I use the fob, but when they fade
out it auto locks my doors, self arms, also if you get out and leave the keys and the headlight on it used to chime. I've disconnected the battery for a cpl hours to no avail. though i'd ask ya'll fine people, just trying to get it back to how it was.
08 civic ex, bought it couple weeks ago.
The inside lights used to come on when I opened the doors(yes I have it switched to door), also made a chime if you left the keys in or lights on.
life was good.
then I was playing with the key fob and hit the panic button it started raising hell, things aren't the same now Now the inside lights will come on when I use the fob, but when they fade
out it auto locks my doors, self arms, also if you get out and leave the keys and the headlight on it used to chime. I've disconnected the battery for a cpl hours to no avail. though i'd ask ya'll fine people, just trying to get it back to how it was.
#3
12-05-2013, 11:01 AM
This is NOT from personal knowledge, just what I was able to research (google)...
06-08 have a known issue with the alarm and dead car battery.
Check all fuses first, cheapest/easiest solution.
Try this...
Disconnect car battery (leave hood open)
Lock driver's door with key
connect battery
lock and unlock driver's door with key (not fob)
Alarm shouldn't sound or should turn off at least (works 9 out of 10 times, so they say).
There is a backup battery inside the alarm module that should be replaced every 5 years.
They don't sell replacement batteries, only the entire module.
You CAN replace the backup battery yourself though as described here:
Alarm 2006 Alarm Siren (Dismantled) - Civinfo
From the photos in the other link...
It shows the backup battery pack as being
7.2V @ 250mAH NI-MH
Read the voltage of the battery pack unplugged from the alarm module.
If it doesn't read anything close to 7.2V, it probably needs to be replaced.
AS A TEST...
If you just want to see if this isolates your problem, get a 4x AA battery holder from radio shack or where ever and install four fresh AA Alkaline batteries. Each battery should read 1.5V and all four in the battery holder should read 6V.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062253
No, this is not 7.2V, but as a quick test the 6V should at least tell you if this is where the problem is.
I would NOT leave this installed long term as the circuit does recharge, and alkaline batteries don't like to be recharged.
Alternatively, you can get a 6x AA battery holder and 6x AA Ni-MH batteries instead.
Each battery fully charged should read 1.2V, and all six should read 7.2V
In your search for a replacement...
Keep the same chemistry, Ni-MH. NOT Ni-Cad or Li-Ion.
Keep the same Voltage, 7.2 V
You can go a little bit larger on the mAH rating though.
Keep the pigtail from the existing battery pack that plugs into the PCB.
You might be able to re-use it to build an external battery pack if you can't find an exact replacement.
YMMV... I did find this 7.2V@650mAH Ni-MH for $12 + Free shipping
Please comment if this helps anyone, thanks!
06-08 have a known issue with the alarm and dead car battery.
Check all fuses first, cheapest/easiest solution.
Try this...
Disconnect car battery (leave hood open)
Lock driver's door with key
connect battery
lock and unlock driver's door with key (not fob)
Alarm shouldn't sound or should turn off at least (works 9 out of 10 times, so they say).
There is a backup battery inside the alarm module that should be replaced every 5 years.
They don't sell replacement batteries, only the entire module.
You CAN replace the backup battery yourself though as described here:
Alarm 2006 Alarm Siren (Dismantled) - Civinfo
From the photos in the other link...
It shows the backup battery pack as being
7.2V @ 250mAH NI-MH
Read the voltage of the battery pack unplugged from the alarm module.
If it doesn't read anything close to 7.2V, it probably needs to be replaced.
AS A TEST...
If you just want to see if this isolates your problem, get a 4x AA battery holder from radio shack or where ever and install four fresh AA Alkaline batteries. Each battery should read 1.5V and all four in the battery holder should read 6V.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062253
No, this is not 7.2V, but as a quick test the 6V should at least tell you if this is where the problem is.
I would NOT leave this installed long term as the circuit does recharge, and alkaline batteries don't like to be recharged.
Alternatively, you can get a 6x AA battery holder and 6x AA Ni-MH batteries instead.
Each battery fully charged should read 1.2V, and all six should read 7.2V
In your search for a replacement...
Keep the same chemistry, Ni-MH. NOT Ni-Cad or Li-Ion.
Keep the same Voltage, 7.2 V
You can go a little bit larger on the mAH rating though.
Keep the pigtail from the existing battery pack that plugs into the PCB.
You might be able to re-use it to build an external battery pack if you can't find an exact replacement.
YMMV... I did find this 7.2V@650mAH Ni-MH for $12 + Free shipping
Please comment if this helps anyone, thanks!
Last edited by Jymmm; 12-05-2013 at 03:20 PM.
#4
12-06-2013, 02:58 AM
yea, the main thing is that the alarm is self arming and has taken over the car,
its no longer chimes when I leave the key in or headlight on, and the inside light wont work when you open the doors(they will turn on manually or by the fob).
It has got something to do with the transmitter, need somebody with a HDS to do the keyless check on the body electrical portion. man I hate having to go to a dealership
I've got a buddy with a snapon soluls? i'll see if he can look
its no longer chimes when I leave the key in or headlight on, and the inside light wont work when you open the doors(they will turn on manually or by the fob).
It has got something to do with the transmitter, need somebody with a HDS to do the keyless check on the body electrical portion. man I hate having to go to a dealership
I've got a buddy with a snapon soluls? i'll see if he can look
#5
12-06-2013, 08:07 AM
That is what the other link is saying what happens when the alarm module backup battery goes bad.
Grab a volt meter, measure the voltage of the alarm backup battery.
It's an easy/cheap enough test.
#7
12-17-2013, 11:08 AM
fixed it,
It was the door switch had become unplugged. it had just pushed itself out of the rubber housing. I knew it was something simple, I was putting somin' in the car on the pass. side and when I open the door the light came on and I found the switch and pushed it in, then I went around to the drivers side and the housing was there but nothing solid inside so I pushed back the plastic on the pillar and grabbed the switch plugged it in and she's working good as new...
It was the door switch had become unplugged. it had just pushed itself out of the rubber housing. I knew it was something simple, I was putting somin' in the car on the pass. side and when I open the door the light came on and I found the switch and pushed it in, then I went around to the drivers side and the housing was there but nothing solid inside so I pushed back the plastic on the pillar and grabbed the switch plugged it in and she's working good as new...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
