Stick to good name brands. a stage 1 clutch will be fine for you....just make sure you get the flywheel resurfaced too. Exedy or ACT make good clutches....so do clutchmasters......As far as tuning goes....find a local spot that does chipped ECU dyno tuned. This will insure that your car is running good power levels, but most importantly at the safest possible air fuel ratio. Failure to get the car tuned will effect the life of the engine by a LOT. Figure tuning WITH a chipped p28 ecu will run you about 700$ or so...at least thats the rate around here. You might also want to get a better radiator and a 160 degree thermostat.....to better cool the engine in the summer.....depends on where you live thou...and how hot it gets.

 

I live in Wisconsin, avg summer temps. are about 80, avg winter temps are about 25.

So how much do you think I would be looking at to get the head studs, stage 1 clutch, tune, resurfaced flywheel done by someone?

 

Probably ~1000 all said and done. Clutch and headstuds are not cheap labor wise.

 

so if i do allll of this, I should have a pretty reliable setup?

 

The edelbrock kit comes with a good tuned piggyback, that is one of the main reasons it costs alot too. I don't see a reason why you would need to switch to a chip p28 ecu unless you plan on making more power than what the piggyback is tuned. (any more power than what the piggyback is tuned would require building the engine)

 

yea thats what i was kinda thinking, I asked the guy that was helping me, "I have a 60mm Apexi exhaust right now, would I need an 80mm exhaust for the turbo?" and he said "no, thats only if you up the boost to above the factory settings, and in doing that you would also need to do low compression pistons, do this, do that, etc..." so I think I should be good with the piggyback it comes with.

but I still should replace the clutch, sparkplugs, and head studs? is that it? anymore suggestions? I dont think I'll need to get a different radiator set up seeing as I'm living in WI....

I use this car to deliver pizzas as well (I'm in college and am making $16.38/hour AFTER TAXES doing this!) and I work 40-45 hours during the summer, then 20-25 hours once school starts, so actually I think I'll wait til the end of summer do get the kit, that way I'll
A) have more money
B) not have to deliver in the heat of summer (hopefully it will be my last summer of delivering because hopefully I'll be graduating with a finance degree and be flipping houses next June of '09)
C) using it to drive 20 hours compared to 40 hours per week will probably be more friendly.

 

OR you can jsut buy like a eg or maybe an ek with a gsr motor for 5 grand, which would have alot more power than youd expect..

 

OR I could just boost my integra.

 

my dream is an ls/vtec turbo, at the safe levels of boost, which is what I'm going to leave it at I'll be getting around 200 whp and like 250 at the crank..... definately wouldnt mind spending $7,500 for that. my car only has 80k miles on it so I plan on keeping it until it dies... I want to make it as nice as possible so that even if I do sell it at around 150k miles, I'll still be able to get about $10,000 for it

 

^dont count on it. Youre better off removing all modifications and selling the car stock.

As far as the kit goes......If you get everything I suggested...it will be very reliable. The fuel management that comes with the kit will work....but the car will not run at its best. The piggyback unit comes with a basemap....which is a tune for your engine and turbo kit, but its on a different car. That piggyback will WORK, but the car will be running at a max of a 7 on a 1-10 scale of safely making more power. Getting a chipped P28 dynotuned by a pro means your car will be running 100% as best as it posibbly can. If it was me, Id go chipped P28.....because spending all this money and cheaping out on fuel management is a gamble I wouldnt take.