ok so i finally finished my turbo project. to let you know my setup is:

Garrett T3
Custom Log Mani
Chipped P06 runnin uberdata
tuner toys 450s
HKS SSQ BOV
fmic

stock d16y7 5spd with y7 intake mani (i have a z6 at my house but no time to swap them)

soooo.... onto the problem:

my idle jumps up and down fastly between 1k and 1500.

the things i have tried:

1.swapping the z6 iacv temporarily until the z6 mani is in but the iacv is not interchangable (wont fit y7)

2.moving pin A14 to pin A12 and removing a groundin pin A13 (resulted in car automatically reving to 6k)

3.removing iacv and leaving it unlugged (still no idle and at 1k to 1500)

i really need a solution to this asap because i REALLY dont have the time to swap in the z6 mani, and the car is still at the place where i got my ic piping and dp fabbed) and im tired of driving over there just to work on it.

any help would be REALLY appreciated

matt

(see my car here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/745491/1)

 

I honestly dont know if this would help, but maybe your TPS censor is damaged. My sencor bops up and down similarly like you described, I got a band new one sitting here, but dont have time to change it.

 

Maybe the alternator is crapping out.

 

hmmm, ok ill try unpluggin the tps sensor and see if it gets worse or the same. i just figured it was the iacv cuz when it was running i unplugged it and nothing changed because the problem was a bad iacv in the first place. but ill see if it gets worse if i unplug the tps.

and i dont think its the alternator, because the battery was practically dead when i was workin on it, then i jumped it, and let it rev up and down all by it self a little bit. and now when i start it, it starts up just fine on its own. so i dont think its the alternator.

any other ideas? by the way there are no vac leaks and all gaskets seem fine as well.

matt.

 

ok so i realized that i never plugged in my IAT to anything. could this be the reason for crappy idle? plus my cluster's engine temp stays on cold even when the car has been "idleing" if you would call it that for a while.

i have seen some people just drill holes in their coupler and stick their IAT in there, would that work?

matt

 

the IAT wasnt it. its def the iacv, cuz when the car is runnin and i unplug the iacv, nothin changes, all other sensors i unplug it gets worse. plus i have a major oil leak comin from the top and back of my oil pan, so i probably need a new oil pan gasket. i will swap in the z6 mani sometime soon and change the oil pan gasket and see if it works.

matt

 

I would check the TPS man cause the IAVC will give it a bit of a rough idle but it will not be a "pulse" like idle and if your tps is not reading .5v at idle and 4.5v at WOT that is your problem

 

^ yea ill check that then. but like i said im pretty sure its the IACV because as the car is runnin i unplug the iacv and nothin happens because that is already the problem. i dont know if im not explaining it well i kinda have a hard time with explain crap.

but i got my car towed back to my house today, just gotta fix the oil leak which i think will be fixed with a new oil pan gasket. then just swap in the z6 mani, and cut the ic piping (hopefully wont have to weld more on it to fit the z6). and all SHOULD be fine, but probably wont.

 

PCV will make the car do that.

Did you lose the PCV valve when installing your boost?

 

yep, i did it like a saab turbo. i gutted the stock pcv. then had a hose connecting to the saab T. which had one line that went to a pcv valve (check valve) and then went to the intake mani. the other end of the saab T went to the catch can then to the ic piping.