^^^ truth!

 

Noobs get laughed at. It's how nature intended.

I'm afraid there is no fast track to this sport guy. No one is going to want to hold you hand through it, especially when everything you could want to know is out there at your disposal. You know what I mean? We've got better things to do. If you show some iniative though, come on here showing you've done some research, and can direct your questions to specific topics, we'll be more than happy to help you. You can start here, since power seems to be your interest: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm.

 

With a 500whp goal, there is no "best" engine because the engine you need is going to need sleeves, pistons, rods, and headwork. Honestly, if you have to ask such a simple start off question, you're really not ready for this endeavor. I'm building a 400whp D16 and I have spent about 2 hours at the LEAST a day on the internet doing research... FOR THE PAST YEAR!

You're talking about making over 5 times the intended horsepower on an engine and expect it to not only run well but last for a while. You're going to need to take the correct amount of steps and YOU need to know how everything is going to go together, work, function, and even disfunction. Like I said before, you don't just make 500whp, and as Forty will be happy to tell you, you don't just make 200whp either without some serious work and time.

And yes, obviously you've never driven a 200whp Honda. They weigh half as much as a GT Mustang, it's 200whp in a tin can. At WOT tin cans do whatever the hell they want, does a stock 250whp Mustang blow it's tires off from a roll? Nope, 200whp Honda's do though, and when they do have traction, they lane travel like it's cool. If you've never driven a 200whp honda, you're not ready for a 500whp honda.

FYI, an LS/VTEC is a hybrid built engine. It's an LS (B18B1/B18A1) bottom end paired with a VTEC head (B18C1/B18C5/B16A2/B16B1). The obvious problem is that the LS bottom end is not designed for high revs while the VTEC head is, but you're going to have to build and balance the bottom end anyway for your power goals. You will need a sleeved block with pistons and rods, a fully built head with retainers, springs, and your best bet would be ITR cams. The engine + aftermarket build parts is already going to be pushing the $5000 envelope. Then you need the turbo kit from fullrace, which is something around $3500. Next of which comes the supporting mods, clutch, axles, appropriate LSD, traction bars, boost controller, Hondata S300/Neptune/AEM EMS, Tuning cost, injectors, fuel pump and appropriate other fuel mods, a full exhaust, and some beefy tires.

Like Kedawei said, there is no fast track for this sport, and you need deep pockets to make big numbers.

 

very deep pockets. the benson sleeves im saving for are 1000 alone

 

Prime example of what everybody is telling you, is that I waited 4 YEARS to save, research, and install my turbo kit. Everyone has been where you are, and first off, if your going to get a motor, that is realiable, every motor from honda is realible when built and tuned correctly within a reasonable amount. Just because you see tons of turbo civics and integras out there doesn't mean they aren't running into problems here and there, and that goes for every performance car built not bought!

 

indeed... and if you have them port/polish/do the headwork, you're looking at another $1600

(will say though laskey/benson are very good about keeping you informed of whats going on, i've got a y8 block with them now being sleeved)

 

That's just not true. H23s, F22s, and F23s are all motors you'll want to avoid unless you change out the crankshaft to a shorter stroke. I also would not boost a B20, or run forged pistons in a H22 because of their sleeves. I am also very weary of the K-series entirely because of their transmissions. Some say K-series transmissions are fine (the one's trying to sell the K-series mostly), but I personally think they have a design flaw somewhere in there that just will not allow them to hold up (a trend reflected in 2001+ Civic D17 automatics). I also would not touch a D17, again because oftheir stroke.

 

You know what I meant, lets not nit pick. If you want to make things simple, then get a b series, whatever price range you want to stick to, whether that is ls/vtec (very affordable and eaily available) or a gsr (more pricey). In my own opinion, an ls/vtec would be best mainly because price vs. performance of a gsr compared to a ls/vtec.

 

How is that nit picking?

 

This is the Full-Race description of their 520whp kit...Stage 2 AC Turbo Kit is designed for the racers who may currently have stock engines and are going to be racing on a stock motor, but have plans of building the motor in the future, and MUST keep AC. This kit has great top end, as it can make up to 540whp and still retains excellent spool characteristics. On a 100% stock GSR engine in a full interior/stereo/sunroof 1996 Civic EX Coupe, 11.40's are consistently reached with this turbo kit. Available for B series engines ONLY.
If your running 11.4's on a stock engine then wht do u think the boost is on it?