94 civic dx : the halfshaft is due for replacement. I dont have the $$ to take it to a shop and i consider my self to be handy. I havent done one before, but i have the chiltons manual. does anyone know of a youtube or pictoral guide that might give some good insight on a step by step proces.

thanks

 

94 Civic's have a half shaft (assuming it is the stock motor)? I thought half shafts were only for b series and such, not D series. I'm sure someone else will be able to help out with this.

 

i guess correct me if i am wrong... i should have been more specific. the cv joint is popping and the boot is torn. did i mis diagnose? what are you implying that i need to replace?

 

Well, if you are referring to the driver's axle boot, then either the boot needs to be replaced, or the axle itself needs to be replaced. For D series (or at least from what I know), have a short axle for the passenger side, and one long axle that goes from the trans all the way over to the driver wheel.

I hope this info helps a little. I am not a master when it comes to trans. knowledge. haha. Someone else will chime in with the exact info you need. I just posted that question about d series half shafts so I can be 100% on the subject.

 

i can help you on details on how to remove it,
first pull ebrake up, then jack car up, remove tire, you will see a real big axle nut its a 1 1/4 socket and can be a real pain to break loose its best sometimes to just stop at a wheel shop and have then use a air impact to break loose. then there is a nut underneath you loosen, you will then need a good hammer and a ball joint seperator,

this is what the ball joint seperator looks like


and this is where you put it and hit the end of the ball joint seperator hard with the hammer it will pop loose,


(tip when reinstalling ^ be very careful put the nut back on by hand and make sure you dont cross thread it) its very easy to mess these thread up)

then you get hit the axle out of the rotor where you removed the big nut,

then climb under car and use a good big flat head screw driver and wiggle the cv axle while prying it out of the trans,
then you will need to remove the bottom strut bolt and then pull cv axle out.

 

thanks for the write up! when i hit the end of the ball joint separator, do i strike it downward so that moves in a prying motion up at the boot? or do i strike it like the head of a nail so that it straddles the ball joint further in?

edit:
when installing the new axle, is there an obvious stopping point to the axle shaft? that question doesnt sound quite right. how do i know if i have installed the new shaft far enough into the transmission?

 

you hit the head of the ball joint seprator like a nail it will pop it loose,
when you install the new axle make sure its in all the way into the trans, it should be flush, you will have to push hard and wiggle it, nost of the time it clicks in,
also what side are you replacing? i may be able to save you alot of $$$.

 

drivers side

 

its leaking... damnit. I got everything taken apart without any significant problems. I was careful taking the old axle shaft out not to tear the seal. I thought i got it out pretty cleanly, but when i got the new one in from autozone, it started to leak by the time i had it off the jack. there is about a 1/8th to 1/4 inch gap between the inboard joint. it clicked in and didnt want to go any further so i asssumed that was it. pulled it off and replaced the seal, also from autozone. still leaking after reinstalling carefully, and clicking the shaft back in, only now its leaking with twice the fuery! HELP!

what is the weak link? (hopefully not me)

edit: got it done, when i put the shaft in, i must have bumped the seal. It was sitting in there a little crooked. straightened it out and not a drop spilled.