How do you check ICM and coil? Do you have to removed both of them from the distributor for testing? What should the reading be for both? You use voltage to check ICM and ohms to check resistance on coil right?

Also, what does a worn distributor rotor and terminal under the cap look like? Picture would be great.

94 Civic Ex for your reference.

 

Well the easiest way is to test with a multimeter. I uploaded how to test them. Granted, this is from a 96-00 civic. Should be the same general principles. You can find the service manuals online. If you cant find the one for your car, PM me, I have it somewhere on my computer. And a worn rotor looks the same as a barely used one. It's just the worn one wont touch the terminals on the cap. And the terminals in the dizzy cap will be oxidized most likely.

 

Thanks for the info.

I got zero reading on my primary winding and around 10 on the secondary winding. I guess I'll have to replaced my ignition coil.

As for the cap and rotor. The contact under the terminal is rough and looks like oxidization to me. The rotor has some kind of thread like fabric hanging from it, so I guess I'll be replacing both while I'm at it.

Here is a picture of the cap and rotor.

 

lol yea, your rotor is toast. But you can scrub the terminals on the cap with some fine steel wool, although for the couple bucks it cost, id replace it

 

Sounds like the coil is bad. What resistance scale on the multimeter did you use? Specs for your coil (92-95 Civics) are shown below.

Greddy's diagram for the ICM is an indirect test, that is you show that everything else is fine and by inference the ICM must be bad, if you don't have spark. In actuality, you can take the ICM to an auto parts store for direct testing. This is a free service.

You might try sanding/scraping clean the contact points inside the cap and on the rotor.

 

Hey Ron! been a while. And just a quick note on the testing. when my ICM went bad, I took it to advance auto, napa, and auto zone. Not one of them said they could test the ICM individually.

 

Hmmm...really can't explain that. Many auto parts stores will test the ICM/igniter unit but won't test the coil. OP, it may be wise to call the auto parts store in advance to ask whether they offer free ICM testing.

 

I guess it really depends on how lazy the worker feel. Autozone here check coil and icm. AAP check only icm. Oreilly doesn't check anything even though the sign outside said they can check the module.

Anyways, thanks for all your help. I got the new coil in today along with new brass cap and rotor since they don't even cost that much, might as well change them while i'm at it. The car starts up faster than before. Just barely turn the key and it start up right away like nothing.