I pulled the whole PCV assembly off except for part 3 (the bottom pcv hose with part 11 and 2 attached pulled out of part 3). Going to buy replacements now.
Any ya its always better than paying someone else to do it, I just thought I was going to be carless for a few days but now its not a big problem.

 

Replaced the FITV with a new one, replaced the PCV and my oil /oil filter. Still have the idling problem. Car seems to fast idle ok on cold start. Seems to run good when warm. After I start driving it when it is still cold (I usually let it warm up about 30 seconds) when I put it in neutral it will either stall or the idle will drop low and go up and down and eventually steady itself.
I'm going to check the two ports in the throttle body right now. Could air in the coolant cause this? I bled the coolant after I out the FITV on.
Is it normal for my injectors to click faster or louder when I push on the injector clip? Seems kinda iffy to me...I have no idea how to measure the resistance. All the injectors seem to have different color wires to them, they are low impedence 460cc RX7 Injectors. I am thinking of getting high impedence 550 RC's.
Is it likely for the car to idle bad because of bad injectors?
Any other things to try?

 

Test the 2-wire coolant temperature (TW) sensor located below the distributor as detailed in the diagram below.

 

How do I measure the resistance? Is this the sensor on the thermostat that turns my fan on? If it is that sensor, it works because it never used to turn the fan on and i replaced it and the fan comes on fine now.
Or are they two different things?
Also there was some suction on the bottom port in the throttle body that goes to the brand new honda FITV even while the fan was coming on and the engine was hot. If I cover the FITV and IACV it stalls out so I don't believe I have a vacuum leak.
Are the injectors a possibility?

 

You use a multimeter. Resistance is measured in Ohm units.

The fan switch on the thermostat housing is different from the 2-wire TW sensor just below the distributor.

The FITV would not cause a low idle when the engine is hot, though I don't understand why the FITV port continues to pull air.

It's not common. Pull each injector connector one at time to see whether one does not worsen the low idle.

 

Im so glad my check engine light finally came on today. Code 14
Checked it out and it is the 14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
Going to replace it with a used one and clean it out with carb cleaner and see if it works

 

Troubleshoot the circuit before you replace the EACV:

 

I need to buy a multimeter. Thanks RonJ

 

I thought I should also add that if i drive the car until the engine is at operating temperature, if I shut it off for a few seconds and then turn it back on the rpms will go up to about 700 but then just drop and die. If I give it some gas it will usually steady itself out and idle.

 

Test the idle air control valve and see if it's good, especially since you are getting Code 14. Either the IACV is bad or you have something else that is causing a poor idle and not allowing the IACV to perform it's job.