So after nearly 9 months of my car sitting, lifeless due to a snapped rod, my 2000 ex coupe is getting a y7/y8 minime swap. I'm going to pickup two complete engines tomorrow (deal-of-my-life!) for $300! super pumped.

I'll be using my y8 5 speed that has a shorter final drive and a new clutch.
The y7 bottom end and guts will be used with the y8 head, cam, intake mani., dizzy, ecu, injectors, throttle body, head gasket, timing belt, wiring harness, and all the vtec goodies.
I'll be taking picture along the way and giving a detailed report of all the good things i'm doing as i'm doing them.
This whole "mini-me" term was new to me, i had heard of the ls/gsr, just never heard it reffered to as a mini-me. and now that I'm doing some research about my swap i've started reading about putting crx pistons and 86-89 integra pistons into a y7/y8 swap and it bumping compression to outrageous proportions. (d16a6=crx pistons, 10.6:1, d16a1=integra, 12.6:1?!!?) i'm very interested in doing this but i wanted to make sure this would work before i went and hunted these parts down. does the a6 and a1 share the same bore as a y7? will the valve reliefs need to be enlarged at all? any specific rods or rod bolts i should use if i do attempt this? and finally is this worth the hassle if i currently have no plans to upgrade any of the y8 heads internals? i'm not looking for huge numbers (while they would be nice ). just more umph!
if anyone has any more advice about this swap i would appretiate it seeing as this is my first engine drop/swap.
if i'm understanding this correctly, seeing as the car came with a y8, i would install the y7 block onto the y8 tranny and go about the rest of the swap as though im just putting my y8 back together right? (aside from finding tdc and straight up and down on the cam gear)
thanks for you're help and TUNING in, should be fun!

 

phew..
just bought and transported the new y7 and y8 in the back of the jk wrangler. fun! hah!
looks like the water pumps pretty much trashed on the y7 block and theres a spun rod bearing in the y8 block and i scored a free set of wires and a flywheel! hah! not bad for $300 bucks (+30 bucks for transport!)! Noticed a slight difference in a coolant hose on the back of the motor. basicly the nipple is in a different location, ill post pics later so i'm deffinitly putting the y8 unit onto the y7 block to make the drop as simple as possible.
I'm going to look and see if the condition of the vtec solenoid, make sure its nice and clean, inspect the cam, and start disassembling and cleaning everything up this week.
Chassi-wise, I'm in good shape so far, still desiding on keeping the a/c or not, seeing as it doesn't work. (prolly a bad compressor or just a leak.) but i'll be taking the block and guts out of the car this weekend too. I'll be taking pictures and posting them after this saturday.

 

after a week i've take the heads off both donner motors, found a hole on the block of the scrap motor (behind the a/c compressor on cylinder 4) deleted my a/c system, and found out a "friend" of mine scrapped my y8 intake manifold... he prolly got like $20 bucks.. kinda pissed... so now i'm in cleaning, polishing, painting and purchasing mode.
Trying to find a vtec solenoid and an intake manifold.
I'm going to start polishing a y8 head's combustion chamber, the throttle body, and a slight polish of the intake and exhaust ports, just to smooth them up a bit.
I need to inspect my clutch when i pull the "holy" block and see if i need a new clutch as well, then its gaskets and belts time... considering getting 17x7.5 inch 98 acura 2.3cl wheels (the split 5 spokes) and polishing and painting those as well.
over all pretty productive 2 days off from the one man with honda hands that always says yes he can!
allllriiiight!
Til next time!
Newbie!

 

polished my entire head today.

looks like new. i'm going to continue to polish the intake and exhaust ports until i'm satisfied.

 

picking up a 70mm throttle body and polished intake manifold this friday. i love the random ricers that come into my work (autozone)!
he said the intake manifold was ported out and polished professionally.
i also found some 311cc injectors for a great price but he said i'd have to run a resistor box?

 

Google "resistor box". It has to do with something electrical with the injectors. I would suggest staying with stock injectors if staying N/A. My stock y8 injectors were fine when I supercharged my motor at 7psi running about 170whp/150wtq.

A 70mm TB will KILL your throttle response and is somewhat unnecessary unless you are going for boost later down the road.

 

thanks again cvcrcr99!
i have the stock tb, so i'll stick with that one for now... >D

 

I just saw that you mentioned needing a Vtec solenoid? D series solenoid, right? I am not sure if they are different between D/B/H etc. If so, I have a spare vtec solenoid from a previous D series build I would sell to you. PM me if you are interested.

You are looking to get a y8 manifold, correct? I apologize if I missed that. If staying N/A, a y8 IM would be best IMO with a 60mm throttle body. Be sure to port match the IM to to TB for the most gains. If going turbo, a skunk2 IM would be nice to have along with a 64/66mm TB, depending on your set-up.

 

does $90 bucks sound reasonable for a vtec solenoid, 311cc fuel injectors, and a resistor box so i can use the injectors with my stock ecu (i know i wont wanna use those injectors with my motor as is, but i'm considering a bigger build down the road)?
problem is i still need an Intake manifold and a new gasket for the vtec solenoid....
on top of new head bolts, gaskets and all new belts..

PS- IF ANYONE KNOWS WHERE TO GET AN A/C BYPASS PULLEY FOR MY Y7/Y8 BUILD i would appretiate help, that or i'll have to have that ugly compressor spinning with nothing hooked up....
PSS- if anyone know's why new head bolts are suggested to be replaced when you rebuild a d16, i would appretate it! i just cant justify spending $40 bucks on 10 long bolts... and mine don't look bad and i'm not going to be pushing more than 130hp out of this build!
THANKS AGAIN!
_newbie!

 

just remove the compressor and belt. :P
i think they say to get new bolts since they stretch a little bit when you put them in? it's better to be safe than sorry. you don't want to be tearing down your motor again!

Building a powerful street NA d16y8/z6 - D-series.org

that is an awesome article for you. i've got a d16y8 i've been looking into building eventually... it's interesting seeing the potential of these motors.

for rods if you're looking to upgrade, LS rods have been used. notching of the block or something of the sort has to be done, can't remember.