EK mini-me build!
so the last 3 days have been exspensive but im close!
long nights and bloody knuckles. got the engine and tranny out with no air tools, and two floor jacks! the alternator was still on! hah! the one cv joint broke on the way out so i bought a new passenger axle. im going back over there in a few minutes to work on splitting the broken block off of the tranny so i can install my new clutch kit and im going to hit the tranny with the same black gloss enamel i've been using on the block and oil pan which recieved new bolts and nuts and a gasket kit. im using a steel oil pan because i drive a lot and inner city streets suck in cleveland! the bolts always rust out on these pans so i replaced as many as possible. i picked up my headbolts from the dealership. oem honda bolts. the exhaust mani and intake mani air covered in beautiful aluminum paint. the cam covers and valve cover are done being painted chrome red. i also got the bottom end taken to a shop to have the crank pulley pulled and a new water pump has been installed. with new gasket. the engines going in, in 3 sections. block and tranny, the axles. then head and intake manifold. bolt up the exhaust after wiring and hoses and im done! im getting pictures tomorrow for the reading impared.
ill get a video of the first start so you can share my butterflys!
~newb
long nights and bloody knuckles. got the engine and tranny out with no air tools, and two floor jacks! the alternator was still on! hah! the one cv joint broke on the way out so i bought a new passenger axle. im going back over there in a few minutes to work on splitting the broken block off of the tranny so i can install my new clutch kit and im going to hit the tranny with the same black gloss enamel i've been using on the block and oil pan which recieved new bolts and nuts and a gasket kit. im using a steel oil pan because i drive a lot and inner city streets suck in cleveland! the bolts always rust out on these pans so i replaced as many as possible. i picked up my headbolts from the dealership. oem honda bolts. the exhaust mani and intake mani air covered in beautiful aluminum paint. the cam covers and valve cover are done being painted chrome red. i also got the bottom end taken to a shop to have the crank pulley pulled and a new water pump has been installed. with new gasket. the engines going in, in 3 sections. block and tranny, the axles. then head and intake manifold. bolt up the exhaust after wiring and hoses and im done! im getting pictures tomorrow for the reading impared.
ill get a video of the first start so you can share my butterflys!
~newb
Last edited by Newbie2000ex; Sep 17, 2011 at 08:10 PM.
PICTURES FINALLY!

THE OLD MOTOR AND HER GLORY HOLE!

Betsy's empty chest
Betsy's donor heart, just about ready for transplant. Needs a new crank position sensor, cam covers, and timing belt put on.

Duralast clutch, lifetime warranty beeyotchh!! Wish i had a picture of the old clutch, HAH!

y8 Intake manifold, high metal flake aluminum with 2000 degree primer under.

y8 Exhaust manifold, same paint as the IM.

open heart surgery's so stressful....
Tomorrows the big day! The scrap motors' alternator and idler pulley come off so i can reuse the cam cover, crank posi. sensor and the pulleys themself. dropping the body down around the motor and trans then slightly lifting the drivetrain up, hooking up the mounts, install the valve cover, starter, axles, new tie rod bushings, wiring harness, exhaust manifold, alt and p/s belts, the intake manifold assembley, radiator hoses, dizzy, bleed the clutch, ect.
AKA- INSERT KEY, HOLD CLUTCH, TURN KEY, vroom!

THE OLD MOTOR AND HER GLORY HOLE!

Betsy's empty chest
Betsy's donor heart, just about ready for transplant. Needs a new crank position sensor, cam covers, and timing belt put on.
Duralast clutch, lifetime warranty beeyotchh!! Wish i had a picture of the old clutch, HAH!

y8 Intake manifold, high metal flake aluminum with 2000 degree primer under.

y8 Exhaust manifold, same paint as the IM.

open heart surgery's so stressful....
Tomorrows the big day! The scrap motors' alternator and idler pulley come off so i can reuse the cam cover, crank posi. sensor and the pulleys themself. dropping the body down around the motor and trans then slightly lifting the drivetrain up, hooking up the mounts, install the valve cover, starter, axles, new tie rod bushings, wiring harness, exhaust manifold, alt and p/s belts, the intake manifold assembley, radiator hoses, dizzy, bleed the clutch, ect.
AKA- INSERT KEY, HOLD CLUTCH, TURN KEY, vroom!
Last edited by Newbie2000ex; Sep 30, 2011 at 06:47 PM.
idk if anyones even out there, but the motor trany combo, both manifolds, throttle body, new alternator, power steering, shift linkages, and most of the hoses are done.
opted for a homemade cat delete. replaced it with a 2.5 inch section of pipe then back to the stock size til the rear axle. i grew up on high performance 2 strokes so its kind of an expansion chamber/resonator idea? lol obviously not going to do what an expansion chamber does on a two stroke, but im just hoping for that extra growl. and i will be tapping the pipe and using 2 spark plug nonfoulers to avoid the bank 2 CEL.
having a real issue with a few small things, throttle linkage "clips?" have gone missing, and i had a few bolt snap on me so an easy out has been quite helpful for the past few days. S#it happens ya know. im considering using a few very small hose clamp type things to hold the linkage down to the IM, unless i can find them at a scrap yard but im betting most IM for these cars get torn out pretty quick.
Anyone know where to get perfect fitting O-rings for the fuel injectors??
~NEWb
opted for a homemade cat delete. replaced it with a 2.5 inch section of pipe then back to the stock size til the rear axle. i grew up on high performance 2 strokes so its kind of an expansion chamber/resonator idea? lol obviously not going to do what an expansion chamber does on a two stroke, but im just hoping for that extra growl. and i will be tapping the pipe and using 2 spark plug nonfoulers to avoid the bank 2 CEL.
having a real issue with a few small things, throttle linkage "clips?" have gone missing, and i had a few bolt snap on me so an easy out has been quite helpful for the past few days. S#it happens ya know. im considering using a few very small hose clamp type things to hold the linkage down to the IM, unless i can find them at a scrap yard but im betting most IM for these cars get torn out pretty quick.
Anyone know where to get perfect fitting O-rings for the fuel injectors??
~NEWb
the final few pieces have been located.
picking up new fuel injector o-ring/ gasket/ grommet things, new front brake rotors, and CMax ceramic pads. after that ive got nothing left to pick up but bolts for the upper control arms, a few castle nuts, and to connect up the wiring harness.
getting my 2.5" straight pipe welded in where the cat used to be, and having the spark plug non foulers welded in place for the 2nd o2 sensor so i dont throw a CEL without the cat. I'll post pics next week, but aside from locating a cheap temporary air intake i've got nothing left to do but work. (took 5 days off to get er done!)
picking up new fuel injector o-ring/ gasket/ grommet things, new front brake rotors, and CMax ceramic pads. after that ive got nothing left to pick up but bolts for the upper control arms, a few castle nuts, and to connect up the wiring harness.
getting my 2.5" straight pipe welded in where the cat used to be, and having the spark plug non foulers welded in place for the 2nd o2 sensor so i dont throw a CEL without the cat. I'll post pics next week, but aside from locating a cheap temporary air intake i've got nothing left to do but work. (took 5 days off to get er done!)
so close yet so far

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i am proud to say, Betsy at 9:00 last time, turned key back fired, needed her wires corrected and started up on the second shot!
shes got a rough idle but im kinda pissed that i didnt know 7ys have no knock sensor because i didnt put one on and ive got an open wire and im doing a 2000 miles journey with her next week. would a knock sensor cause rough idle. i did just adjust the ignition timing by turning the distributor backwards, toward the trunk, and she did calm down a lot but shes still seaching for idle. i need to get her off jack stands so im not vibrating her off em without out her wheels on, so thats the plans for her right now. i wanna be able to get her warm so i can really see whats going on. iacv? its hooked up. map sensor? hooked up. she has iridium ngks in her, neuaspeed wires. shell venture down to 750ish and rise all the way to 1500. up and down the whole time. but like i said after i calmed her down by messing with the dizzy, i said enoughs enough till i get her hooked up right and on 4 wheels. ill be driving her later tonight. i know 2 true honda gurus that i could take her too after i got her realigned, dont wanna eat up the new kuhmos.
after shes warmed up ill see her reaction and maybe mess with the idle air screw on the tb.
I JUST WANNA DRIVE HER! SHES SO PRETTY WITH HER AEM COLD/RAM AIR AND HER YELLOW WIRES!!! gah!
help?
shes got a rough idle but im kinda pissed that i didnt know 7ys have no knock sensor because i didnt put one on and ive got an open wire and im doing a 2000 miles journey with her next week. would a knock sensor cause rough idle. i did just adjust the ignition timing by turning the distributor backwards, toward the trunk, and she did calm down a lot but shes still seaching for idle. i need to get her off jack stands so im not vibrating her off em without out her wheels on, so thats the plans for her right now. i wanna be able to get her warm so i can really see whats going on. iacv? its hooked up. map sensor? hooked up. she has iridium ngks in her, neuaspeed wires. shell venture down to 750ish and rise all the way to 1500. up and down the whole time. but like i said after i calmed her down by messing with the dizzy, i said enoughs enough till i get her hooked up right and on 4 wheels. ill be driving her later tonight. i know 2 true honda gurus that i could take her too after i got her realigned, dont wanna eat up the new kuhmos.
after shes warmed up ill see her reaction and maybe mess with the idle air screw on the tb.
I JUST WANNA DRIVE HER! SHES SO PRETTY WITH HER AEM COLD/RAM AIR AND HER YELLOW WIRES!!! gah!
help?
no second bank o2 sensor yet, no knock sensor yet.
shes running kinda.. ok shes runnin rough lol
a lot of fluttering of the throttle sometimes, when warm shes stalling completely.
but coming to a stop in neutral is almost impossible without stalling her. vacuum leak?
she had a coolant leak behind the motor after driving her for a while.
after all this work im litterally gunna drop her off at a local honda guru and get her fixed!
shes running kinda.. ok shes runnin rough lol
a lot of fluttering of the throttle sometimes, when warm shes stalling completely.
but coming to a stop in neutral is almost impossible without stalling her. vacuum leak?
she had a coolant leak behind the motor after driving her for a while.
after all this work im litterally gunna drop her off at a local honda guru and get her fixed!
sorry I never noticed this thread or I would have commented earlier. I had some of the same problems when I did this swap
I was told that everytime you torque the head down to the block you need to do a valve adjustment. When my car started up it was idling like crap and stalling at every stop. After I did a valve adjustment, it ran fine. might wanna give a once over to make sure you didnt miss any vacume lines anyway for good measure. I believe there is PCV/brake booster/EVAP system/fuel pressure regulator for vaccume lines. Also make sure the TPS and MAF sensors are not switched because the plugs are the same.
I also had a coolant leak in the back of the engine. I had 2, one from a missing hose clamp on a hose pointing upward that expanded when heated, and one from not tightening the IM bolts in the right sequence.
with a knock sensor CEL, your car should still run fairly well, it wouldnt cause stalling. The computer would just retard timing by a slight bit, and vtec will not engage. I had a hell of a time with the knock sensor and never did get all the bugs out. my knock sensor was aftermarket, DEFINATELY go oem on the knock sensor. If you get false knock like I did at random times, try relocating it to someplace not on the block but that still gets vibration. Before my car got wrecked I was about to try and make a custom knock sensor mount to attach to the alternator mounting bracket, I read others have done this with success.
If you still need the throttle cable mounting bracket on top of the IM, you can have mine for 10 shipped.
Enjoy your new Y8
I was told that everytime you torque the head down to the block you need to do a valve adjustment. When my car started up it was idling like crap and stalling at every stop. After I did a valve adjustment, it ran fine. might wanna give a once over to make sure you didnt miss any vacume lines anyway for good measure. I believe there is PCV/brake booster/EVAP system/fuel pressure regulator for vaccume lines. Also make sure the TPS and MAF sensors are not switched because the plugs are the same.
I also had a coolant leak in the back of the engine. I had 2, one from a missing hose clamp on a hose pointing upward that expanded when heated, and one from not tightening the IM bolts in the right sequence.
with a knock sensor CEL, your car should still run fairly well, it wouldnt cause stalling. The computer would just retard timing by a slight bit, and vtec will not engage. I had a hell of a time with the knock sensor and never did get all the bugs out. my knock sensor was aftermarket, DEFINATELY go oem on the knock sensor. If you get false knock like I did at random times, try relocating it to someplace not on the block but that still gets vibration. Before my car got wrecked I was about to try and make a custom knock sensor mount to attach to the alternator mounting bracket, I read others have done this with success.
If you still need the throttle cable mounting bracket on top of the IM, you can have mine for 10 shipped.
Enjoy your new Y8


