B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
#14
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
ORIGINAL: gili_91hatch
really, how the hell would the compression ration work with that,
more horsepower and more torque?
really, how the hell would the compression ration work with that,
more horsepower and more torque?
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/c...c/compcalc.php
#15
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
Some of the fastest hondas out there have a B20 with a VTEC head. If you want to stay N/A and had the money, a b20 with a ITR head is the best combo in my mind. But if you want a turbo, a non-VTEC b20 has a much more natural powerband and is easier to tune.
#16
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
Don't put a VTEC head on anything but a VTEC motor unless Spoon, Mugen, TODA, or Skunk2 is doing the work for you. IT WILL FAIL in the long run, for one or more of these reasons
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
#17
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
yeah you dont wanna boost a B20. ever. unless you bore it. and sleeve it.
thin walls + long stroke/bore ratio + boost = :'(
B18C1 (torque) with a B16A head (factory port&polish + lower comp). low comp pistons. ARP headstuds. Boost at 8psi. good for low 13s-high 12s.
thin walls + long stroke/bore ratio + boost = :'(
B18C1 (torque) with a B16A head (factory port&polish + lower comp). low comp pistons. ARP headstuds. Boost at 8psi. good for low 13s-high 12s.
#19
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
b16b vs. b18c (type r's)
since i found a thread on this already i didnt wanna start a new one.
there are so many things you can do to a honda civic. and ive decided i wanna stay NA.
i hear if goin NA, then the itr motor is the way to go. but i wanna know a little more about the ctr motor. does the itr motor beat it out in every way?
for me, i would love the fact that i could tell people i have a b16b. i know people say b16's are waay over-rated, and the b16b is way more than it is worth. but something is pullin me towards it. im not lookin to be the fastest guy in the world. thats why i decided on stayin NA, that plus i wont have to go through the hassle of everything dealing with forced induction. (prepping block, tuning, buying the parts, installing, etc..)
since i found a thread on this already i didnt wanna start a new one.
there are so many things you can do to a honda civic. and ive decided i wanna stay NA.
i hear if goin NA, then the itr motor is the way to go. but i wanna know a little more about the ctr motor. does the itr motor beat it out in every way?
for me, i would love the fact that i could tell people i have a b16b. i know people say b16's are waay over-rated, and the b16b is way more than it is worth. but something is pullin me towards it. im not lookin to be the fastest guy in the world. thats why i decided on stayin NA, that plus i wont have to go through the hassle of everything dealing with forced induction. (prepping block, tuning, buying the parts, installing, etc..)
#20
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
b16b is a gsr block and a type r head, it is destroked and uses longer connecting rod to have a better rod to stroke ratio which lowers the piston speed and makes it able to run at higher rpm with more reliablility.
go with a gsr block, put a b16 head on it with a ctr intake cam and a itr exhaust cam and you have an itr engine for probably 2000 bucks less, heck you don't even need the b16 head it just raises the compression a little bit, the cams and valvetrain would be fine in a gsr head.
go with a gsr block, put a b16 head on it with a ctr intake cam and a itr exhaust cam and you have an itr engine for probably 2000 bucks less, heck you don't even need the b16 head it just raises the compression a little bit, the cams and valvetrain would be fine in a gsr head.