B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
#22
12-13-2006, 08:06 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
ORIGINAL: Kappa22
Don't put a VTEC head on anything but a VTEC motor unless Spoon, Mugen, TODA, or Skunk2 is doing the work for you. IT WILL FAIL in the long run, for one or more of these reasons
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
Don't put a VTEC head on anything but a VTEC motor unless Spoon, Mugen, TODA, or Skunk2 is doing the work for you. IT WILL FAIL in the long run, for one or more of these reasons
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
ORIGINAL: Nail I3unny
yeah you dont wanna boost a B20. ever. unless you bore it. and sleeve it.
thin walls + long stroke/bore ratio + boost = :'(
yeah you dont wanna boost a B20. ever. unless you bore it. and sleeve it.
thin walls + long stroke/bore ratio + boost = :'(
Sorry but both of these statements are false and I just wanted to note that for anyone reading this thread
#23
12-13-2006, 08:51 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
as you can see there are tons of options available, what are your goals, NA or boost? How much wheel hp? dd? let us know so we can narrow it down for ya!!
#24
12-13-2006, 09:42 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
ORIGINAL: Kappa22
Don't put a VTEC head on anything but a VTEC motor unless Spoon, Mugen, TODA, or Skunk2 is doing the work for you. IT WILL FAIL in the long run, for one or more of these reasons
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
Don't put a VTEC head on anything but a VTEC motor unless Spoon, Mugen, TODA, or Skunk2 is doing the work for you. IT WILL FAIL in the long run, for one or more of these reasons
1) You take it to the head's redline every time you shift.
2) You blow a hole in one of the B20's thin-*** cylinders
3) The cams burn up from lack of oil pressure (which also means no VTEC for you. Ever).
4) You throw a rod because of the not-so-balanced bottom end.
5) One or more of the cylinders sinks.
6) You put a turbo on it (which will most likely cause at least 3 of the above).
Bottom line: if you're not a mechanic and you don't already KNOW how to do an LS- or CR-VTEC, DON'T DO IT.
actually, it's quite common AND reliable. integra owners do it all the time...
the only thing you really have to do is swap the head, and then set up the VTEC actuation system (basically tapping the head and hooking up a hydraulic line that lets the oil system actuate the VTEC bits in the head).
you'll also need to get a new ECU to manage the new VTEC capabilities, but that's a given.
for a better swap, use the timing belt and water pump combo off the B18C1 engine you got the head off of.
have no fear. just dooooo eeeeeet.
#25
12-13-2006, 09:46 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
^^ but what kappa was saying is that its not as reliable as a factory engine w/ vtec. and most people that do it don't do it right so they blow up and wonder why.
a b18 or b20 bottom is only good to about 7000rpm even with the vtec head, because of the longer stroke and it not being designed for high rpm
a b18 or b20 bottom is only good to about 7000rpm even with the vtec head, because of the longer stroke and it not being designed for high rpm
#29
12-13-2006, 10:01 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
its not a theory, its truth. an integra non vtec bottom end is not meant to, nor capable of withstanding higher than stock rpm for long periods of time of going there often, they are built for economy and more torque that is why the have the longer stroke.
can an ls vtec be reliable? yes it can and will last for many years if its done right and driven properly.
revving it to 9000 rpm because you have toda cams in the head is gonna kill it just as fast as running 87 octane gas in you turbo d.
can an ls vtec be reliable? yes it can and will last for many years if its done right and driven properly.
revving it to 9000 rpm because you have toda cams in the head is gonna kill it just as fast as running 87 octane gas in you turbo d.
#30
12-13-2006, 10:01 PM
RE: B16b vs B18c1/B18c5
It may be "dependable" but thats if its done 100% correctly. Kappa simply stated that you shouldnt do it if you dont know what youre doing.
Even so, a factory Vtec motor is what you want for 110% reliability.
Even so, a factory Vtec motor is what you want for 110% reliability.
