just found a list for the internal d parts, what do u guys think about this

skunk 2 IM/Edelbrock IM - 330
injen cai - 150
RsR Exmag Exhaust - 480
Skunk2 front and rear lower tie bars - 150
skunk2 front and rear strut bars - 150
arp headstuds - 100
dc ceramic 421's - 250
exedy stage 1 clutch - not sure
fidanza/act 9lb clutch - not sure
Rage imports d16 cam gear - not sure
skunk2 stage 1 cams - not sure
chipped p28 - not sure
maybe new injectors - 200
aem pullys - 180

 

First off, when I put a stg 2 camshaft, valve springs/retainers in, I got a CEL. It was for a vacuum issue. My buddy and I found out that the shaft was creating more vacuum (since the shaft technically allow more air/gas into the cylinder), my ECU had no idea what was going on and basically was dumping fuel into my engine. I was getting about 16-17mpg. You will most likely need a tune.

You will be faster than a stock Civic if you build your head, but it really will not be a HUGE difference. I just love the lope sound I hear when I come to a red light.

I have no idea if a recirculating BOV increases hp or not, but for some reason, I am doubting it. If it does, it is probably minimal.

 

i see, so basically it comes down to 2 things, if u want a nice sounds or not lol

and also with the cames to remove the cel id have to tune it? and also did u ever fyno the car with all those goodies in ur car lol

 

That seems a little much for an IM. I got mine for $240 (skunk2) brand new. I have heard that upgraded exedy clutches make it 3 times harder to actually push the pedal down. I would suggest a chromoly flywheel. If you have a d16, it camshaft (not plural), I doubt you would need bigger injectors, and I would shy away from pulley systems. Trustdestruction can tell you about that lol... he can put it into words perfectly.

Definitely not, if I am "racing" a stock Civic, they stop making power at around 6300, however, since the camshaft technically shifts your powerband, you'll be making power beyond that 6300 rpm mark. I can still feel a pull when I shift at 8k. But I do love the sounds, too. Yes, to remove the CEL, you'll have to tune it to get the fuel trims dialed in. Unfortunately, I never dyno'd the car yet. I am waiting for boost to do it. However, I should do a before and after boost, but I don't have the money.

 

First of all you will need low compression pistons, in my build I used 75.5mm Vitara pistons, Forged I-Beam Connecting Rods with ARP Rod Bolts, TD05 16G EVO III Turbo,
Johnny Race Car Style Front Mount Intercooler, Crower Stage 2 Turbo Cam, Crower Valve Springs & Titanium Retainers, 460 cc Rx7 injectors (low impedence) with resistor box but upgrading to 750cc RC injectors next month.
Your also going to want to get Cometic head gasket and a P28 chipped/socketed with crome/neptune/uberdata, first call your local dyno tuners to see which one they would prefer to tune. You have to realize your machine shop bill will be atleast 2 grand for the boring, honing, and all the other little things they do if you get them to build it (not including parts). ARP Headstuds are a must to prevent headlift under boost. If your running over 11 pounds get a GM 3 Bar map sensor. Throw in a Walbro 255 Fuel Pump, adjustable Cam Gear, atleast 2.5"exhaust from turbo back, a good manifold, MSD plug wires and an aftermarket vacuum bar. Thats my setup, its going on the dyno tonight just for 14lbs until i upgrade my injectors, I'll post the results and maybe a quick video.

 

Also Ihave a ACT Heavy duty pressure plate with 6 puck sprung race disc and its not very much stiffer than the stock, hardly noticeable.

 

You don't need the low comp pistons and all the other things to boost, but it is alot better to have them since you won't have to worry about screwing anything up.

I have heard good things about ACT, Competition, and Clutchmasters.

 

Im so turned on right now, how much did u spend already??

 

Bought the car 2 years ago for $5000 CDN. I've easily put in 5000 to the engine including my rediculous machine shop bill (they ripped me off for 3500 by sneaking in tonnes of hours that I call bull**** lol).
Anyways I think it has some boost leaks but I just made 204whp on only 9psi. I'm going back with a boost controller for 20psi in a few weeks after I upgrade to 70mm throttle body, edelbrock intake manifold, and 750cc RC injectors. Hoping to make high 200's or low 300's as my goal.

 

wow, thats money, at least for my broke college behind

but also is there any pistons that could be dropd without having to bore or machine the engine ? just pope out the old one's and pop in the new one's?