Look at my mod list in the ROTM, I ran a 13.28 in the 1/4. With slicks and a lsd tranny i think i could run in the mid 12's. I have a gsr turbo. And the h22 sleeves suck, you HAVE TO CHANGE THEM IF YOU GO TO FORGED PISTONS.

 

GT40? Damn must not want to spool till 5000+rpm. A GT35 is about the biggest I would run on a street driven 1.8 liter car.

 

a GSR with bolt ons is good for 14.4ish with a good driver and is cheaper than the ITR.

 

The difference between the work that is done to run 8 psi, and 14 psi is pretty drastic. 8 is runnable on stock internals and such, but bumping it up higher, youre going to need some serious work done.

 

That is a blanket statement

 

Well if it was me I would go for the B, two reasons, one is because you can find a B18C4 (same as C1) over here for about £250 which is a good price, You can get a H22 for about the same although I was offered one for £200 a while ago.
My second one is the weight, To me the weight of my car is very important. People on this forum on the whole only ever talk about bashing their car up a drag strip which is great, but over here that is not really a thing people can do easily so handling becomes very important (plus we have twisties everywhere) So the extra weight of the H becomes an issue for me.
I am well aware it might not be much but it is too much for me.

 

well a B series plus a turbo setup is for one going to weigh as much as a H and for two is going to put more of that weight in front of the ideal center of gravity(in front of the front wheels.

 

N/A H ftw.

 

ok, B18c1 for boost, H22a going for pure drag IMO,b18C type r no turbo for autox.

if your going boost i say do the b18c1 or build a poor mans type r then turbo.IMO don't turbo a h22 or type r exspecialy the type r. the h22 also has a little more weight about 50-60lbs more than a b series thats why more people use them for drags because it's a little heavy for autox. you could also do what i am doing. i am doing a b20b using my b16a vtec head and computer + a s80 trans (LSD), with ITB's, bolt ons and bottem end built with internals built, and head built. right there your talking major trq and pretty much blowing any one off the line if you hook up.it's also a pretty cheap build too because the b20b JDM only cost $600-$800. just my 2 cents.

 

GSR + turbo would be better for drag than an N/A H22. you seen that nos'd H22 swapped civic on Pinks? that thing got its *** handed to it by a mustang GT with bolt ons (by bolt ons i mean IHE, IM/TB, cam, valvetrain, valves...no bottom end work, no FI).