Engine & Internal Chat about beefing up your engine's insides here.

Port and polished head

Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:08 PM
  #11  
jpnolan's Avatar
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Default RE: Port and polished head

uhhhh pimp it out hahah ya id want to drive my dads 03 lexus sc430 but hes being burried with it and until then hess the only one in the drivers seat haha
 
Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:20 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

got any actual pics of the ports and combustion chamber?
 
Old Apr 9, 2008 | 08:23 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

uh......thats what i got..i got kinda screwed on this...but my fault..its up for sale on the zcr already. lol






 
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:19 AM
  #14  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

two days ago when I was looking for d block, there was a guy selling a zc head on craigslist (bay area) for $40 or 60, it had 200k miles on it though.
 
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 07:01 AM
  #15  
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Default RE: Port and polished head


ORIGINAL: Hailchristian

BTW...wtf are you gunna finish your turbo build? I read your entire thread and i was getting stoked then it just stopped.


im looking to do the same thing your doing...but not take 3 and a half years to do it
i'm sending little Hag $275 on April 27th for the wideband and thats the last thing on the list, so i guess sometimes after that.....it's actually been just about a 1 year long project, and w/e, i'll get it done as quick as i can

good luck if you're gonna take a project on yourself dude!
 
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:32 AM
  #16  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

I know the browntops and blacktops aren't compatible, but what's the difference. From the picture, it looked like the coolant lines were different, and there might've been some sensors on one that weren't on the other. BTW, you could check the head for straightness yourself by putting a straightedge diagonally across the surface of the head. Then you slip a feeler gauge under the middle. You use the smallest setting first and work your way up until you can't slip a thicker gauge underneath. There's a spec that's mentioned in my Chilton's on what the tolerance is, but it's probably different from engine to engine. You should check your service manual for that spec.

To answer your earlier question, I got my head milled at a machine shop in Southern California for $30, I believe. This was at C&Q auto, I believe they're a national chain? I've read that another way to fix warpage is to bake your head in an oven at ~300 degrees F for an hour, then let it cool down. This is supposed to soften the metal so it can straighten out on its own. I haven't done that myself so I can't say what kind of results you'll get with it.
 
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 03:16 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

Thanks for the info!


This browntop turns out to be from a USDM integra. if you look at the picture, you can see that the distributer mouns, Cam sensor, and even the valve cover mounts are different. Its bogus...oh well..

My dad got my head recurfaced and presure tested today and they said the valves are all good which is good news. So im gunna order up some ARP headstuds and go from there.


BLING!


 
Old Apr 10, 2008 | 09:54 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

just ordered my arp head studs and my dad took my head into a machinist today. they recerfaced the head, cleaned off most of the ugly *** blue paint that was on it and compression checked the valves. My valves are good, and head is nice and shiny!



couldn't hold my camera still for ****..stumach was running on empty


 
Old Apr 11, 2008 | 08:44 PM
  #19  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

That resurfacing head looks nice. How much did it run you and where did you go?
 
Old Apr 11, 2008 | 09:14 PM
  #20  
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Default RE: Port and polished head

60 bux...i dont know where my dad went.
 
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