Properly Adjusting Clutch
2000 Cicic LX. Clutch engaged at the very top of pedal just before releasing your foot. I made adjustments to the linkage between the pedal and cylinder.
I Want To Confirm That The Adjustment Will Not Damage The Divetrain. After Adjustment The Clutch Engages About 2 inches From Floor and Disengages Roughly 1-2 inches Before Releasing Your Foot From The Clutch. Everything Feels Fine However I Do Have About 2 Inches Of "Loose Pedal" At The Top Where There Is NO Resistance Whatsoever. The Clutch Is Working Perfectly But I do Not Want To Damage Throw Out Bearing, Etc.
I Want To Confirm That The Adjustment Will Not Damage The Divetrain. After Adjustment The Clutch Engages About 2 inches From Floor and Disengages Roughly 1-2 inches Before Releasing Your Foot From The Clutch. Everything Feels Fine However I Do Have About 2 Inches Of "Loose Pedal" At The Top Where There Is NO Resistance Whatsoever. The Clutch Is Working Perfectly But I do Not Want To Damage Throw Out Bearing, Etc.
dont ride with your foot on the pedal, and u should be fine. as long as u dont hear a grinding sound when its idling in neutral, and u dont feel any harsh vibrations on the pedal while idling in neutral, i'd say dont worry about the slack. IMO.
The hydraulic system is self-adjusting. It is possible that your clutch is almost worn out, causing it to disengage earlier than normal. Or it could be normal.
The only adjustment is the pedal linkage. You won't damage the clutch unless you have the pedal so tight that the master cylinder can't return to the fully out position, which allows self-adjustment of the slave cylinder to occur. Proper adjustment is to set the pedal linkage so the pedal goes down about 1/2 to 1 inch before starting to press on the master cylinder. Right now you have it too loose (at 2 inches) according to that, but you should be OK to drive that way if you want to.
The only adjustment is the pedal linkage. You won't damage the clutch unless you have the pedal so tight that the master cylinder can't return to the fully out position, which allows self-adjustment of the slave cylinder to occur. Proper adjustment is to set the pedal linkage so the pedal goes down about 1/2 to 1 inch before starting to press on the master cylinder. Right now you have it too loose (at 2 inches) according to that, but you should be OK to drive that way if you want to.
So the bottom line is this correct?:
If there is no slippage and the clutch engages and disengages smoothly the clutch does not need replacement
As long as the clutch Fully Disengages and then Fully Engages then the adjustment is OK even though you have a pedal that has no resistance for the first 1-2 inches of travel.
As long as the clutch is fully engaged before the pedal hits the floor the adjustment is OK.
CORRECT?
If there is no slippage and the clutch engages and disengages smoothly the clutch does not need replacement
As long as the clutch Fully Disengages and then Fully Engages then the adjustment is OK even though you have a pedal that has no resistance for the first 1-2 inches of travel.
As long as the clutch is fully engaged before the pedal hits the floor the adjustment is OK.
CORRECT?
That is correct, i doubt that anyone without a completely new hydro setup would feel the same, i have a 92 dx, and its on its second clutch this year, (first lasted about 75k, not bad for teaching a few new drivers) and have yet to have to do any adjusting other than bleeding the slave after a new clutch...
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