whats a negative trigger?

 

Try going by your local technical school. If it has a welding class they should do it for free. We do stuff like that just about every day. We cannot charge because of the school being funded by the state, and our instructor thinks its good practice for us.

 

SPARK PLUG TRICK:

When replacing spark plugs, face the gap side toward your intake mani. Make them all line up like this and it will give you a good half horse power.

EGR BLOCK OFF:

Block off your EGR valve (Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve). This valve...well...recirculates exhaust gas from the engine back into the intake mani. Well all that hot air robs power. So, block off the valve. To do this just cut out a plate to cover the inlet and put the valve back in place so you dont throw a check engine light.

VALVE COVER BREATHER:

If you have a cold air intake (I hope you do at this point). Get a valve cover breather instead of using that little hose that connects the CAI to the valve cover. Put the breather on your valve cover so the raw exhaust emitted (very little) does not end up in the intake. Be sure to block off the hole you now have on your CAI instead of adding a breather here as it would have no purpose.

HEAT SHIELD:

If you have a short ram intake, you may want to make a heat shield for it as the engine bay can heat up the air being taken in.

REFRIGERATION INSULATION:

Great trick here, buy some refrigeration insulation from a hardware store and wrap your cold air intake arm, and if you dont have a fuel cooler, wrap the fuel lines in the engine bay for a little power.

COOLANT LINE LOOP:

Your Honda may have its coolant line routed through the throttle body. Well after your engine is hot, the coolant is heated and flows through your TB, inturn creating a hot intake charge (infact I've heard the charge will be 160 degrees or higher). Ok so, take the lines off the TB and connect them so that they loop and the coolant runs from the engine, then, back into the engine. You gotta block the holes that you now have in the TB. Some cars may have a fast idle valve that may freak out and rev your engine, if this happens, disable it.

WEIGHT REDUCTION:

I'm sure you know all the weight reduction tricks. Here are a couple more: Toss out the spare tire and cut out the tire well that it sits in and weld a flat sheet of light weight metal over the hole. Remove tow hooks on underside of your car. Ditch the spoiler, for a FWD car its dead weight.

WASHER HOOD COWLING:

Space the bolts in your hood hinges with a few big washers, it will raise the hood a little and creat a gap where air can flow out of, thus cooling the engine. (I think it would look ugly, but someone may like the idea)

LOW TEMP THERMOSTAT:

Get a low temp thermostat, it will help your engine stay cool.

TIMING ADVANCE:

Advance your timing. This makes your engine wait a little longer to ignite the fuel and creats more torque. Remember to use 91+ octane because the higher compression may pre-ignite lower octane fuels. If your hear knocking or pinging, then your fuel is pre-igniting, go back to normal timing or use higher octane. (higher octane, 91,94 etc., is harder to ignite)

BRAKE DUST SHIELD:

Your brakes creat friction to slow your Honda, friction=heat, your brakes hate heat. Lots of cars have brake dust shields. They are as they sound, they shield dust. Well for the most part they not effective at all. They trap heat on the rotor and cause brake fade. So take em' off!

PHENOLIC SPACER:

Pick up a Phenolic spacer and use it to creat a gap between your intake and the engine. Use around 3/4" thick to be safe to creat some low end torque.

IAT SENSOR RELOCATE:

Relocate the Intake Air Temperature sensor (IAT) if you have one. This sensor tells the computer how hot the air is that is coming into the engine, and will adapt timing and fuel ingection according to the reading. Well the bad part is that the sensor is located on the intake mani right near the cylinder head. This area is hot and creates a hot reading, when really your air intake temp is colder then the sensor says. So relocate the sensor to your CAI arm with a weld or otherwise so that it will read true.

EXHAUST:

General Rules: (single exhaust) For 1.5-2.0L engines with 100hp 2.00" piping should be used, 150hp=2.25", 200hp=2.50"

Hope you found some stuff of use, thanks.

 

Want to light up your trunk and keep the neon bulb out of sight? I used an underbody neon bulb that is for the front or rear of the car (not the sides). I ziptied it up under the trunk (not the lid) to 2 metal rods that support the trunk lid. You can wire the a switch and then a fuse right into the power and ground of the amp so you can use the bulb at any time but don't have to worry about running wires all the way from the interior or engine bay just to use the the neon light.

 

Isnt dry ice illegal to have without certin permits? i belive i heard that on a tv show, where they did a test using it....and they said the adverage person couldnt get it w/o permits and what not. just a thought.

 

^ i am pretty sure that is only if you want it in large quantities, but you can't buy any till your 18 too(learnt that on mythbusters)

 

I'm running a decent system and I hear of people's idol acting funky or just in general what I did was just speed up my timing and now I can feel just that much of a difference in my car with pick up and everything. Its been running at a faster timing for about a year and nothing has been wrong with it. Dont turn the distributor all the way up tho!

 

anyone have any advice on road noise reduction material thats inexpensive, other than dynamat (too much $)?

i cant hear myself think when i'm on the freeway. i at least want to be able to hear my stereo when i drive.

help please! THANKS!

 

umm which car?

 

If your battery gets alot of white corrosion around the positive terminal, super glue a copper penny to the top of the battery on the positive side, you will never see corrosion again