Scott's Ek Build: Shaved and Tucked
Alright well I took out my exhaust to see if I can fix this rattle, well I guess not. I made ure it was square at the header, I even tried tightening one head bolt all the way first in an attempt to angle the exhaust. I have no idea where the rattle came from... never did this til the other day. So I have one more thing I'll try before I take it in. Someone I know will bend it to clear for me if I don't fix it. What the problem is, is that the exhaust is hitting on the outside (passenger side) of the underbody of the car. This causes the resonator flange to hit the body as well as a spot of the exhaust before the rear wheel well. So What I'm thinking is I need to tighten up the bushing on the resonator (it is on the driver side of the resonator). So my idea is to take an adjustable hose clamp, throw it around the bushings, and tighten the s*** out of it. This should take out all the slack in the bushings and hopefully pull the whole exhaust over. And it is so funny to see the bottom of my exhaust. Cost me $500 and the resonator has deep scratches and a little flat spot, and thecan is pretty scratched up too haha.
My cars been rattling back there like crazy but i figured it was because of the bad welding and placement job that someone did on it. They missed one of the support things. I mean it doesnt sit even in the space for it anyway but thats because its a pos aftermarket set up and its not meant to fit in the space provided. Thus the reaosn im wanting oem exhaust ha but your situation sounds diff from mine. Why would it just randomly start shaking and tappin the body like that? U hit a super deep hole and eff it up enough to move it that far or somethin
I keed i keed ha
I keed i keed ha
I honestly don't know. I took the exhaust off the hangers and off the header to put the shorty in and since then it is actin up. So I don't know if the hanger got stretched or what but it is annoying. It is a common problem for the Greddy to rattle when it is raining but idk. So I'll try tightening up the donut next week probably, other wise it is off to a friends to rebend it.
I finished 2/3 carbon fiber things finaly! The driver side door panel insert is on as well as the center console lid. The insert is so strong, when I would close the door it just felt week and that the insert was bending. This thing is soliddddd now. I'll take pics tomorrow, I took some today but the memory card wasn't in the camera and I don't know where the cord to plug my camera in is. The next thing I'm going to make I think is a cup holder delete cover thing.
I'm at a toss up as to what to buy next:
-Battery box and 2 awg and relocate battery to trunk and fuse box in glove box
-Breather box and lines to take out power steering but still have it breath and have fluid
-D brackets and endlinks to put my gsr sway bar on so that my wheels stick to the ground as good as barnicles stick to a boat.
I finished 2/3 carbon fiber things finaly! The driver side door panel insert is on as well as the center console lid. The insert is so strong, when I would close the door it just felt week and that the insert was bending. This thing is soliddddd now. I'll take pics tomorrow, I took some today but the memory card wasn't in the camera and I don't know where the cord to plug my camera in is. The next thing I'm going to make I think is a cup holder delete cover thing.
I'm at a toss up as to what to buy next:
-Battery box and 2 awg and relocate battery to trunk and fuse box in glove box
-Breather box and lines to take out power steering but still have it breath and have fluid
-D brackets and endlinks to put my gsr sway bar on so that my wheels stick to the ground as good as barnicles stick to a boat.
Definitely get the sway bar links, they make a huggge difference in handling. Yours will prolly have less body roll then mine since i have an si sway bar, i believe the GSR rear sway is bigger if im not mistaken.
I don't have a dry cell but that's why I would get a box and vent it out.
And the si sway bar is 13mm, ls/rs 2 dr teg is 13mm too, 4 dr teg (which is what mine is off of) and gsr sway bar is 14mm. It just sucks that it'll cost me $70 to have the sway bar in. $30+ for endlinks, and they it's like $30+ for the d brackets.
And the si sway bar is 13mm, ls/rs 2 dr teg is 13mm too, 4 dr teg (which is what mine is off of) and gsr sway bar is 14mm. It just sucks that it'll cost me $70 to have the sway bar in. $30+ for endlinks, and they it's like $30+ for the d brackets.
I'll also add a new eBay aluminum rad and some silicone rad hoses to my list of stuff. I have yet to do a coolant flush and not doing it until I have a reason to drain the coolant haha.
And this is probably the sexiest subframe brace I've seen. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories Do you still need d brackets to mount sway bars on these?
And this is probably the sexiest subframe brace I've seen. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories Do you still need d brackets to mount sway bars on these?
Last edited by Scott53092; Aug 11, 2010 at 10:07 PM.
And this is probably the sexiest subframe brace I've seen. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLACK...Q5fAccessories Do you still need d brackets to mount sway bars on these?


