Put new endlinks on the front sway bar today. The old ones were so worn out, I can say it feels a little tighter in turns, but that's probably the butt dyno mainly. The whole job took me probably 10 minutes... more time spent getting tools and putting them away haha. I really want to get a sandblaster and parts washer and 12 ton press this winter. Pull all my suspension off, blast everything, press in all new poly bushings, and repaint everything black. I don't like seeing all the rust haha. Relowered the back of my car today too, the rear sway bar I put in pushed the rear up like 1/2" so I put it back down to the orignial and then some haha. Rear camber ftw.

Old vs New

 

Well ladies and gentlemen, it is time for this build to become an actual BUILD. So when a mod gets a chance... please change my project thread titel to.... (insert drum roll)

"Scott's N/A H22 Ek project"

Yes that's right, I'm goin H. Just picked up some parts of the motor that I'm going to piece together.

I picked up a jdm bottom and P13 head today. Jdm bottom is good from what I looked at, I haven't really torn it apart yet. Cylinder walls are flawless, pulled the pan and no play in any of the rods, piston faces are unmolested.

Now for the P13 head... this is a lil more special. The head itself is mildly ported. Has Ti retainers and dual valve springs. Also has Skunk2 cams and cam gears. The stage of the cams is currently unkown (lol), but I know they are Skunks since they have the engravings on the end like every Skunk2 cams have. I'm going to measure up the cams tomorrow with a dial caliper and figure out what stage I'm dealing with. Everything is there for the head, I just have to put caps and the girdles and stuff on.

I need to get everything hot tanked for sure, then going to paint it aluminum cast. Trust me people this WON'T be in ANY TIME SOON. I'm going to rebuild the entire bottom end, hone it, shotpeen the stock rods, and ARP rod bolts and head studs. This motor will b e done by spring, as will my entire car hopefully (planning on full wire tuck and bay shave). I will ened to convert this motor to obd2 as well. And I still need a lottttttt more stuff. I got everything I have so far for $450 off this gun, pretty good deal considering how the head is.

What I still need:
-Starter
-Alternator
-Flywheel
-Clutch
-Intake manifold
-Header
-Transmission
-Shifter box
-Shifter cables
-96 ecu
-Phearable chipped p28
-Avid mounts
-Hasport axles


This isn't going to be cheap lol, but that's why I have all winter, and why I am going to take my time. So I'll keep this updated since I actually have somethin to work on now. I need to get longer bolts to put it on the engine stand. And one hole for the tranny to bolt in to is cross threaded the first few threads, so I have to go buy a 12x1.25 tap tomorrow since I don't have that size. Once it is retapped it'll be going on the stand and pulling apart. I start school next Friday so for 2 monthes I won't be bringing in much cash lol. Here's some pics.

H22a bottom

P13 H22 head

Crappy pic of ported head

Underside of head

Bottom end

Clean sleeves, FRM ftw!

Wrinkle blue valve cover, it'll probably be painted gold to match the bay

Skunk2 cams

Skunk2 cam gears

 

AH Yes H22 builds FTW!!! Woo def. got my eye on this thread now, good luck with it, im excited for the finished outlook!

 

If I actually follow through with my plan my car will be insane next spring. It is getting parked for winter in a few weeks, once I get a truck. Then going all out in the engine bay.

And my research so far has led me to believe my Skunk2 cams are their Tuner series Stage 2, which if they are that's good to me because I don't want too high of a stage, but 2 will give me a lot of power while retaining low end. It has s8 and s10 on the cam ends, I think its s8 on the exhaust, s10 on intake. Somethin like that, which means they are stage 2.

 

Well I mocked up the head today to make sure everythings there since I got most of it in a box. Everything was there except a bolt for the vtec solenoid which my friend lost. I'm going to pull the springs and retainers tomorrow maybe, I want to make sure they are aftermarket. The springs are way too shiney to be the factory springs though. I'm probably going to start rebuilding the head first. Only thing I plan on redoing in the head is new valve seals. I need to get an intake manifold and an obd2 distributor as well. I will port out the intake manifold so I think I'm going to look for one soon. Here's the head plans:

(Everything oem I will be getting through work (Acura) since I get a discount)
-New valve seals ($30ish)
-Used obd2 distributor ($100)
-Intake manifold ($100ish I think)
-Gaskets ($50)
-New cap and rotor ($30)
-Hot tank (idk, not expensive though I know that)
-Cam seal ($15)
-MAYBE a bdl or aem fuel rail ($75)
-See if I can get new bolts for the cam gears since those are rusty
-Paint the valve cover. They cut the cam gear cover off on the side so I'm going to clean that up and strighten out the cut. I'd rather have moon cuts but the entire part gone still looks good.

Total: I'd say around $300ish depending on how cheap I can pick up parts. Paid $250 for the head. So $550 for a full built Skunk2 stage 2 head that'll be in pretty much new condition, with port and polish is a really good deal if you ask me. The bottom end is what's going to cost some seriously money lol, and I'm just rebuilding. Only plan to build the bottom is shotpeen and ARP st00f.


The h22a bottom should be on the stand tomorrow, I had to clean up the threads on a hole where the tranny bolts in, was cross threaded so we didn't put the engine on the stand when I got it. But it is all good now and I got 4 new bolts ($4.80 a bolt from the hardware store!). So tomorrow I will probably pull the pistons, if not I will Sunday. Iwill have the block down to nothing next week.

 

Well I went to see Jackass 3d on Saturday (pretty good) so all my friends and I accomplished was getting the engine on the stand. So today I started pulling some stuff off. I got the stuff on the outside off. Dipstick, mount, alternator bracket, water pump. I still have to pull the oil pump. After work today I turned it over and started pullnig the botom end. Pans off and windage plate are out. The main bolts were insanely tight. I was sweating by the time I go all 10. I thought my Crapsman breaker bar was gonna break, was flexing at the joint a lil bit. What's holding me back now is the girdle and caps won't come off. I'm going to get a Hayne's tomorrow so I can have some directions for when I get further in. I'll talk to a mechanic tomorrow to se what they say to get the girdle and caps free. I don't think I could've missed any bolts unless somehow they come from inside... but here's some pics.

Stuff removed on outside, pistons are cleaning up pretty good. All I've done is put brake cleaner on em and whiped them down.

Tensioner and water pump out

Piston faces

Beefy *** girdle and he bottom end


Me being organized and bagging everything


Windage tray and other random ****

My woodworking skills LOL, I;m actually really good if I take my time... this is just so I know what valve goes where!

What I believe are Supertech Ti retainers and dual springs

Got sick of walking around the Vette for tools so they migrated over lol



Honestly lemme know if you take the time to read this. It kinda decides whether I'm going to take as many pictures or not. If not a lot of people check here for updates and stuff I'm not going to bother with as many pictures.

 

I always read your posts in here Scott this kinda stuff is just way over my head so i tend not to post when doing this stuff for reasons everyone knows (me making myself look like a fool). Done that enough times on here trying to keep from doing it some more

So basically i have no input in that question sorry :/ i looooove pics though Helps me kinda learn all the steps and what not lol

 

I read it, especially now that an H22 is involved

 

I'm interested! By the way, I still have my ARP rod bolts from the d-series build I was doing. I noticed when I bought them they fit d series and b series motors, etc... If they so happen to fit h series as well I could sell them to you for cheaper than anywhere else. Theyre just sittin in the package in my room lol.

 

Well I got the girdle/main caps off today. It seems as if our mechanics actually know their stuff lol. After going back and forth on each side of the girdle hitting it with a hard rubber mallet for about 5-10 minutes it started to come up. Hitting it back and forth made it wiggle its way out and I was able to pull it out. So I was able to pop all the pistons out now. All the bearings looked great, no scratches or anything. The crank itself looks flawless, everything in the bottom end is CLEAN. I have yet to find a big problem on the bottom end.

Brake cleanr really does work wonders. I sprayed the piston faces down with it and use a hand brass wire brush on the faces, they look amazing now. All the chunks of carbon are now off. I'm going to be calling a shop this week to get a quote on hot tanking my head and block as well as honing the cylinders. Here's some progress pictures.

Bottom end:

Clean FRM (fiber reinforced metal) sleeves.

Big *** girdle and main caps off

Pistons cleaned up