BIG NEWS! I just read about a motor swap that I had never heard of before, and I've never heard it discussed here on HCF. Its called a "G23" Frankenstein swap. It consists of a F23 block (SOHC Accord motor) and an H22 head. People are laying down about 200hp and 180-190 lbs of torque with this swap and no bolt ons. PLUS its about 1/3 the price of a K-swap. I figure I could hit almost 250 with some cams, springs and perhaps a port/polish. maybe even some domed pistons to up the compression...

I've still got alot of research to do, but this seems to be a very likely candidate for my EK.

 

G23 is NOT worth the time or money if you don't plan on boosting it. The benefit of an f bottom over an h are the sleeves. H sleeves are fmr, fibre reinforced metal. They don't play well with forged pistons, so in order to lower the compression and use pistons in an h correctly you have to get it sleeved. H series are generally high compression, with the setup I had, jdm bottom with fully built stage 2 head, it wouldve been like 11:1. F23 has iron sleeves, so they are much stronger and take boost amazingly. But f heads aren't performance made like an h, so that's why the hybrid comes in. If you are going all motor, an h22 is your best bet, pretty much the poor mans k.Another thing to consider is using an h23 bottom with h22 internals and an h22 head, more torque and displacement, really awesome power. Swapping an h in is plenty of work so be prepared. It gets expensive with mounts and axles and other misc stuff. And i recommend doing an h23 manual tensioner conversion always. If you have any questions I'll gladly help, lik I said I had a built h22 to put on my ek just sold the motor instead, so u know a lt bout the swap and stuff since I looked in to it for a while.

 

I want to keep the option to boost open for later on down the line. The G23 sounds like it'll be more torquey as compared the H.

How much cheaper would the H be over the K? What are the numbers like for a mostly stock H in a civic?

Would it be cheaper to source up an Fblock and swap on an H head rather than an a H23 block with and H22 head?

am I repeating myself? god,I'm drunk

 

There is another G23 build on the forum. But I don't recall his plans.

 

honestly, the more I think about it, the more likely it is that I will end up building a b20. Itll be cheaper and easier to swap in. The money I save can go towards actually building the bottom end before it gets swapped in. probably just some domed pistons to up the compression and some new rings. Hell, I might even stroke it a little. Have to check prices at shops near here.

should have suspension ordered by the end of the week =]

 

B20 is always good, but I'm not a big b series fan. Everyone has a b swap, just gets old when every car has the same thing. Friend of mine from work has a b20v, with b16 head with type r internals, and that thing pullssssss. Pretty impressed with its power. But when it comes to all motor it just doesn't cut it if you are going for big numbers (in my opinion). Which is why I'd go H22 any day. B20s aren't the best for boost, they are just bored out b18s so the walls are kinda thin.

H22 isn't that hard of a swap. If you can't tell, I'm really biased toward H swaps lol. Just have to cut a hole for the shifter box, buy axles for the swap, and rewire a few plugs. And an H22 can be had for pretty cheap.

I got an insane deal for my H22. I paid $350 for a comeplete jdm bottom end, and usdm obd1 H22 head, Supertech springs and retainers, Skunk2 stage 2 cams. Still needed trans, starter, alternator, dizzy, manifolds, fuel rail, still needed a lot. But I sold the motor, in boxes since I tore it down, for $600. I was going to buy a FULL obd2 H22a4 from a totaled Prelude, and it was for $900. They aren't hard to find and aren;t that expensive since not a lot of people are in to the swap.

So say...
$1k for the swap
$200 for axles, unless you do it yourself
$300 Avid motor mounts

That's pretty much the main essentials for the swap, and for $1500 you'd have an easy 200 whp, stock, all motor engine. Reliability of oem, and would beat gsr's and b16s ALL DAY. Personally I'd throw a clutch and flywheel in there right away too, but you wouldn't need anything else.

 

I'd sincerely like to find an H22, I think it would be my best bet for NA.

ps- shaved the civic emblem off the hatch today, and removed stupid vinyl Monster sticker from back window. suspension will be ordered after thursday

edit-scott, here's a thought: if I were to swap in a H22 and somewhere down the line I get bored with it... Couldn't I sleeve it, destroke it, turbo it and crank the psi to get some killer numbers? (obviously theres more to it than that, such as headwork and tuning...) I'd imagine you could boost the hell out of with those extra thick sleeves *drool*

 

Well let me share this. The guy who sold me the h22, had an h23 hybrid that he was making over 500 whp on in his prelude. You could get by with the stock bottom end boosted with good tuning, but being a lil higher comp it'd need to be dyno tuned well. Sleeving is expensive as hell, looking at about $1200.

 

Next mod: I'm gonna paint this on my hood. =]

 

theres a guy on CL around here with a b18c1 with type r pistons and new piston rings, header, starter, bolts and "almost everything you need for a swap"

no tranny

he wants 500. seems like a pretty good deal. my question is: what compression would the type r's put the motor at AND are they good for turbo?

just keeping my options open. I dont like the fact that the H22 weighs almost 200 lbs more than a b series. I LOVE corners. (plus H series parts seem to be REALLY hard to come by around here...)

besides, I dont plan on drag racing or auto xing this thing. its just gonna be my DD. I wanna stay away from K series because I've never done a motor swap before. This is also another reason for me to stay away from H series. I guess I kinda have "cold feet" about my engine swap...