I hope you are not going to be disappointed if a N/A D series doesn't make much extra power. I had everything you mentioned above except for the pistons and bottom end work, and the car was an absolute turd. The cam and all that shifted the power range to start around 4.5k.

If you are planning on boost, just don't waste your time with higher cp pistons. I doubt you can't just slap on a thicker HG and call it a day when you are ready for turbo.

My Crower cam was fine, I loved the Bisi cam I had, before I ****ed it up. Bisi cam was a definite improvement over the Crower performance wise. Start reading up on D series aftermarket camshafts and oil additives to prevent wear on the lobes. It is common with D series to see excessive wear on the exhaust side. I think adding zinc to the oil will help out, but if it burns (the oil w/ additive) your cat will not be happy.

ARP studs should be about $115 max. I paid $100 for mine. Buy the studs for the head you are going to be using. Not all D series studs are the same.

Unless you are going to crazy weight savings or wanting to race the car, just stick with the OEM fuel tank.

I'll see if I can find some z6 injectors laying around. Those will be fine until you go with a turbo, then plan on getting bigger injectors.

Hasbro is a toy company. Hasport is a mount company. They make amazing products. I had Drop Engineering mounts when I was still D series and thought they were great. I ended up selling them to Scott on the forum here. To my knowledge, he is still using them.

S300 is good. I love mine.

They sell golden eagle sleeved bottom end already set-up, or are you talking about buying the sleeves and having them installed?

Let me know if you have any specific questions. I love when project threads start getting into the performance side of things.

 

I think that i will push 150ish wph? which is fine by me, i was thinking i could just buy another car for this price or an engine swap, so that could still be considered but I dont think it will be any cheaper if not more and likely to run into other problems unless i just go with a b series but eh. Also I do just like having a modified car and wasting money As it stands now the car drives like crap and anything will be an improvement. I really just wanna get it started for a turbo, and i want to be able to drive it without worring about it blowing up.

the pistons are pretty cheap, relatively, and i am ditching the rods. I will swap pistons/rods/sleeves when i turbo (tranny then too), Is that a double negative on purpose? I just mentioned the head gasket because I am going to get my engine milled to try and hit 12:1. All internals will be replaced when I boost.

I am still considering other cams, most of the DIY and guides i was reading suggested crower so that is the only reason i picked those out as of right now.

Very good to know about the additives because I have not heard anything about that yet. Definitely on my list of things to look at now.

I am looking at head studs AND rod bolts. But I will make sure it is for a D16Z6, everything tells me the bottoms are nearly the same through out the d16s but obviously i am mainly dealing with the head anyway, but I will triple check it is d16y7(z6).

I already ruled the fuel cell out.

d-series recommend i just get dsm or evo injectors and with them running at ~$100 i might just do that unless you did happen to have some laying around.



Now I am looking at the neptune. I was told I wont be able to boost with just the s300 and also hondata is no longer updated (but on 16 year old car i cant see what needs updating). Need to read more on this so it is up in the air.

I will buy it already set up, along with rods/pistons and tranny when i boost. (but that will be whole other money pit)

Besides the vague questions so far, I will definitely be asking more as I move along

 

Meh, 150 is going to be tough IMO. I was only at 165whp with the supercharger installed.

IMO, you will spend the amount for a B18c1 swap, and be slower. You will have ALOT of knowledge about everything though. It is somewhat of a trade off.

Wait. You are going to do everything twice?

Crower is definitely one of the better companies. I understand Bisi has a **** ton of flack surrounding him for various reasons, so I understand how you feel about that.

[QUOTE]I am looking at head studs AND rod bolts. But I will make sure it is for a D16Z6, everything tells me the bottoms are nearly the same through out the d16s but obviously i am mainly dealing with the head anyway, but I will triple check it is d16y7(z6).[QUOTE]

Headstud and rod bolts should only be like $150 then Rod bolts will be the same throughout the D series.

There is a different length bolt for the Z6 and y7/8 motors. The Z6 has all the same size studs in the ARP kit. The Y7/8 motors have a shorter (I think) head bolt or w/e on the driver front corner. Keep that in mind.

That will work. It would just be easier to find plug an play RCs at that point and not have to worry about a resistor box and all that wiring crap. I hate wires btw.

Huh, I was boosted on my S300. There are plenty of people that are boosted on S300. Hondata even offers a boost set-up on S300s. The set-up has to be installed by Hondata or something like that though. My S300 has the boost stuff on it. I no longer use it of course.

Looking forward to progress!

 

I am convinced I think. As time is still not an issue (although I get a feeling my car is going to die soon in this heat, with the HG leaking, the noises I am hearing... I only need it for school for less than a month, and worst case I can take a bus) everything is still up in the air.

Highly considering a B16B Type R. at 3600 for the complete set (i have heard nothing but amazing things about hmotors and they are right down the street from me meaning I would not have to pay shipping =D just gotta get a family member with a truck to drive it literally a couple miles) and my mechanic will drop it in for 700 max (i think he can drop the price a little for me, what do you thing about that? for the entire swap) That puts me at less than the cost of rebuilding my engine and with a lot more power and potential. Like you said cvcrcr a big part for me was learning, but the more I look at it it is just other people doing machine work for me and me throwing money around to just have a rebuilt engine. I think I would be much happier with the type r and a 20k mile engine that is actually 20k not just rebuilt.

Now as for my mechanic putting it together for me for 700... I feel like i could just drop it in myself but the couple things that bothered me are the tranny and the axles. I have changed my flywheel and pressure plate myself in my last civic but it was hell and i ended up having to borrow power tools and the axles were a b!tch and in the end there was a bad noise from the tranny bearings... Makes me cautious about doing it again. That would still just put me at 4300 if I do not get hasport mounts or HO alternator (cannot find the stock b16b alternators amp output not sure if it is that much more than 75, but if it is even 120 that would be perfect).

In this case I would still have my d16y7 and could either sell it or do a super slow build on it myself and still learn. Leaning towards trying to get a friend to buy it and fund me working on it LOL but i dont know how he would feel about that investment. Anyway, talk about ADD but your insight on the end power of a rebuild really made me rethink how much i wanted a type r... haha i would love to have that engine in my car...

 

Hmotorsonline.com is a great company to work with. If you are right down the street from them, I would definitely go for that. If you cannot find anyone with a truck to help, rent a Uhaul or something!

Again, pros and cons to every situation. Let's say you would be spending the same amount of money for the builds. Of course, a turbo'd D series would probably end up putting more power down, but you will probably have more reliability issues. You would gain knowledge about building D series motors, but on the other hand, you would then start to have first knowledge on swaps and wiring and all that fun stuff if going to a different motor. Rebuilt motors can fail prematurely if not everything is done right and within factory spec. But if you pull it off, you will feel amazing about it. haha

Its been fun learning about the H22 motor and the following it has as well as all of the different things you can do to it that would never be offered for D/B series.

For a B series swap (in an EK at least) the mounts from the D series should work fine. You would have to use the B16 rear T bracket, and the B16 upper driver side post.

You will need some heavy duty tools for each scenario. If you do the motor swap yourself, you will at least need to buy an engine hoist, too. If you are really interested in finding out what would be easier for you, do a dry run and figure out what tools you would need for each set-up. I guess if you were to pull the D series, rebuild, and then reinstall, you would still need a hoist regardless. :/

I would swap my H22 for a JDM B16b in a heartbeat. Those motors are in a league of their own IMO. The price hurts though...

Probably mentioned this before, but just sit down, figure out how much you want to spend (I didn't), figure out how much power would make you happy (I didn't) and go from there. If I knew I would have been swapping to the H22, I would not have wasted so much time and money on the D series. I was just upset with the idea of having a higher CP block on a stage 2 head (camshaft I mean) with a 9lb pulley on the blower and only making ~225whp/~180wtq after factoring in all the time and money I would have invested. Out of the box, the H22 motor set-up I have is putting down 195whp/165wtq with a lot of room to grow. If I went forward with the JRSC D series, I would be playing fire as far as reliability, and there would be no room to grow with the power if I ever wanted more.

 

Sounds familiar
but the stock power of the b16b would keep me happy for now (i assume, my only comparison being an audi a4 quattro boosted which is a lot of fun to drive and similar numbers) and i could probably lightly boost it with stock internals to a little over 200 eventually if i wanted. My concerns for this swap would be the following:

it comes with axles half shaft, does this mean my front rims would need to be 5 lug? also it comes with ABS so could i run my lol drums or would i need to convert my brakes too? I guess both these questions kind of go hand in hand. Disc brake/5 lug conversion kits straight off a type r seem to run about 500$

 

Half shaft really doesn't have anything to do with it unless it requires you to have a 36mm axle/hub. If so, then you are looking at going 5 lug from a CTR (not ITR) for the 36mm hub. I would double check on that. I am sure Hmotors can help. If the axles with the motor are 32mm, you should be fine.

ABS? That shouldn't have much to do with the motor. ABS is a big ugly box with a bunch of hard lines coming from it. Google a pic of an Integra (non-RS) engine bay and you will see in the front of the bay on the passenger side. Gross....

 

B16B Type R is 32mm, intake and exhaust are 2.5" collectors. So ditching the manifold I wrapped (sitting is a box along with catalytic convertor) I will order a bigger cata and the apexi ws2 is already 2.5" although it measure 2.75"

Nasty, scratch that. And now i get it is not affected by the motor, I just didnt want that ABS light on in the dash but i just wont plug it in.

Looking into doing the Integra disc brake conversion now. Want to grab Del Sol seats, and a subframe brace with engine and LCA sway bars if i can find decent quality/priced ones. Short shifter and maybe a new steering wheel. I will use the stock b16b engine mounts which come with the kit.

As for my current engine, I am either gonna let it sit or if i can afford it I will put it in a shell of a 96-00 hatch if i can find one without major rust/frame damage. Then I can do as I please with it, potentially sell it but I would rather just be able to work on it, I will have to see how that plays out. First things first are the brakes, gonna see if i can go pick up a set from the junk yard after I swap out my carpc mobo. Will finally get some pics again maybe

 

You have an ABS light in your 96-00 Civic? ABS wasn't even an option in the EKs from my knowledge except the SIs if anything, but my SI cluster doesn't show an ABS light. I might be stupid and just missing it since we don't need it.

 

I have an EX cluster and it has the light. When i did the dash conversion to 99-00 the dash harness has the plug and when it plug it into the cluster i get the ABS light on, but it is not even visible (looks like another black oval) when not plugged in. With my mixed and matched parts I cannot say for sure how it got there heh