That's an odd turbine inlet flange... post pics of outlet and measure it out. At first I thought it was a mopar t25 but the flanges are wrong.

 

If he's going to hone the cylinders, then he'd better not be using stock pistons... right?

If you're going to all the trouble of having the block rebuilt, why not spend a little extra cash on some decent pistons? Seems like you should while you have it apart.

I understand people boost stock blocks all day long, but how long does it really last? From what I've read, not that long usually.

 

I find builds that say both, they last long and they don't last long. Won't the proper ring size compensate for the hone since he isn't boring it out?

I've gotta wait for other parts, so I could get some pistons ordered in the meantime. Gonna look around and see what's affordable...

 

I measured the inlet. It is 2 inch by 1+3/4 inch. (That's not the inlet... that's the exhaust inlet port, silly)

Would it be advisable to use the eBay housings with the garrett middle?

 

I believe so, but I'm no engine builder. Not sure if its cool to trust oversized rings on stock pistons under boost.

 

That's a good point. I'm wary of boring it out and boosting too though. Hmm... If you were in the same situation, what pistons would you use?

 

I'm just letting the builder pick the pistons. I explained to him that I'll be boosting it later on so I don't want to compensate the piston to wall clearance with a piston ring. He agreed and said I should lower compression... I just straight up said "That's an old way of looking at things." He's sort of upset that he ordered the rings and has to send them back but whatever. $300 for a set of pistons and rings, pins, locks, sounds about right?

He has the rod bolts in already too. Just waiting on my big ole OEM seal order...

 

D series ftw! I love that site.

As for the turbo. Take measurements of the inducer and exducer and figure out what you have your hands on. The turbo manifold flange is really weird so good luck finding a manifold flanged for that. If the exducer on the eBay turbo is the same as on the garrett then I'd swap them over, you can make good use of a bigger ar housing on b series. Turbo wise I'd recommend a 50 trim at those power levels. Garrett 50 trims are all over for a couple 100, I've got a 57 trim since my power goals are around 400, and those are common turbos too. On b series a 57 is the easiest 300 hp and still have decent spool. My turbo lag will be until 5k.

 

Well, I took off both compressor housings. The compressor wheels are different sizes. The exducer is way smaller on the Garrett, heck, the whole wheel is smaller...

So what I'm wondering is, since I'm going to be rebuilding one of these turbos (or both), would it be worthwhile to take the compressor wheel, exhaust wheel, and the compressor and exhaust housings and using the Garrett middle part? Would this be more reliable than the eBay middle part? I've heard that a lot of eBay turbos fail from an improper oil feed restrictor, or lack-there-of. I'm still researching the hell out of this while I wait for my parts and for the block work to be done lol...

I took out the LMA's and the rocker arms. Wow, that was really easy...





I really hope these things help in the long run. I'd love a nice quiet B16.

Do you know which one is the new one? :P

 

Alright so I measured the inducer and exducer on both.

Garret T3: Exducer 60mm, inducer 37mm, so a 38 trim? :/

Ebay T3/T4: Exducer 76mm, inducer 50mm, 43 trim? :/

So it definitely makes sense to use the eBay compressor... but just barely. Maybe I'll save the Garrett for a little D series boost down the road. :P