FYI you dont need to buy itr valves, just get a 3 angle valve job done on your stockers. If you are going to run stock cams then you could even just buy 8 itr in Ted springs for the exhaust side. And if you plan on eventually upgrading cams just get a set of supertech duals, they are relatively cheap.

 

I never thought of just buying the inner spring... good idea.

One of my exhaust valves is toast for sure. I'll order a new OEM one since the other ones look alright...

When I take my head in to get a valve job, do they need the springs and retainers as well? Should I just buy a valve and the inner exhaust springs, valve seals, LMAs, and get a shop to put it together when they do the valve job? .... or just replace the valve and put the parts in... I guess I'm trying to ask if the head needs to be mostly assembled to do the valve job.

After looking into checking clearances and stuff, I don't really want to rebuild this motor myself. It's daunting.

 

its intimidating but if you go with a combo that is known to work you dont have that much to worry about assuming everything is set up properly. I know shops out here charge close to a grand to rebuild an engine but that is with some machine work too...

 

I was quoted 500 for the block. The head seems the easier of the two, hope it's cheaper. There's no import shops around here though, just a bunch of domestic ones... If it cost more than 1500 to rebuild, I might as well buy one from an importer.

 

I found some pictures of my old CRX, after I sold it. The motor died so I'm not sure where the CRX is now... I'd so buy it back lol. Rusty piece... would be fun for a bit.









i hope those show up.

 

lol, nice! I wish my former Civic's new owner was into forums. I haven't heard from my baby in over a year now.

 

That is awesome. I am in the same boat as Dan, but not.

Sold my 93 Civic to my bro who totaled it
Totaled my 98 Civic
Sold the 92 Civic hatch to some guy in DE for $900, some people broke into it and stole stuff (according to his CL post) and now he has been trying to sell it for $2k for the past 7 months. lulz

 

Well I traded the holley throttle body for a set of hydro innovative 75a mounts. In trying to find out how much just the cable passenger mount is, if possible to purchase...

I started pulling out the valves too.

For reference, the cable transmission passenger mount is part number 19120. It's about $115.00 says the man on the phone. Perfect!

 

Took all the valves out. My buddy is hooking me up with a full set of B16 intake/exhaust valves and all his leftover springs from his B16 for $40! Woop. Love having buddies.

I don't know if I should use stock retainers or not either... I recall hearing that it should be fine.

here's a shot of the valve seat that the mangled valve was sitting in



oily carbon-coated valves... yummy.











i hope some of these are worth re-using...

EDIT: Placed my order for 8 new OEM LMAs and 8 each of exhaust and intake valve seals... Those seals are really not very expensive lol. I tried taking them out of the head but I gave up! Pretty stuck in there. :P

Called around and found that the headwork will be on average about $275. Found a place I trust so once I have all my parts for the head I'll take it in to get the valve seats re-ground and make sure the head is straight and true.

Called innovative and found the part number for the passenger mount.

Figured that it wasn't worth making a new post about. Lol. Happy New Years everyone!

 

My car has been without a PCV valve from valve cover to the intake arm for a while. Bad, I know... I decided to use a brake booster 1 way valve so that the pressure can escape without drawing in air from the arm. I think that's how it is supposed to work? I hope.

I also want to say that OBD2 bay plugs **** me right the **** off.

There's that stupid white retaining clip on all of them, and if you lose that clip, your terminals will bend and not make contact.

I don't know why it took until now to throw code 14, but, after I installed my 1 way valve it popped up. I've had my IACV wires reversed for God knows how long. Ugh. I've been dealing with this stupid idle on start-up. Stays at 2k for a bit (pretty normal for -30 weather) then drops to 600 or so... It'll stay at 1500 for a while if i hold the pedal down slightly and let go. Now I've gotta pull off my harness and replace that one plug. I hope it fixes a couple of the issues I've been having.

Also either the throwout bearing or the input shaft bearing is making a horrendous squealing noise. I disconnected the alternator to verify that it isn't the cause.

Pretty mad. Pretty mad. Good ole Marley has got my back though.


I was dicking around and found out where and what I'm making my catch can out of when I boost. I forget where I saw this but it seems like a pretty damn good idea.



It's the rad overflow from an EF mounted in the charcoal canister spot. If I can hollow out a charcoal canister, I may use that instead, for that oem clean-ish look.

Also discovered that 1st gen CRX Si center caps fit in my 7th gen Si wheels.



Also I think it's hilarious when people key my car. It's been keyed so many times, prior to me buying it, that I just don't care anymore. The paint is just **** already :lol: